Thread: Fob handset sync methods and no remote access for me

I cannot sync my key fob; more specifically, I cant lock or unlock my doors remotely. I can start and drive the car just fine using the physical key. I recently had a new door latch mechanism installed by MR Automotive at Redcliffe when I had an alarm lockout problem ("Engine Disabled. Press Remote"), which was caused/exxacerbated by spurious EM interference in my garage. Ever since the new latch was installed at the mechanic, my remote fob hasn't worked. My key fob is black, not ash grey (does that mean its key #2? Is that the problem?).

My fob batteries are new, and my vehicle battery is new and large. All the fob synchronise procedures listed below do not work for my 2000 4.6. Additionally, when I do have the RF receiver plugged in, the key fob button does wake the car (as evidenced by the park selector light), so that proves to me that the fob is transmitting and the receiver is hearing the signal and sending it to the BeCM.

Interestingly, the EKA doesnt work for me either, and it has in the past. I tried both methods for it too (lock once before entering the code and lock four times before entering the code). When people do the 'four lock start' EKA, doesnt that put their car into superlock? On the second lock turn my car superlocks - which I worry is disturbing the EKA process somehow.

Under advice from adm333 I am sending the fob transmitter and the RF receiver to LAB electronics, but they are on holidays at the moment. If the were the transmitter or receiver though, the EKA should work. I am afraid that the only common denominator is the BeCM - even though the car is fine otherwise. The new upgraded RF receiver (YWY500170) is in my future too, so I can park my car in my garage again.

Here is the (aulro) link to my BeCM waking interference thread: BeCM waking up - dead battery - Australian Land Rover Owners
Here is the (aulro) link to my 'fob wont work' thread: Engine disabled - Page 2 - Australian Land Rover Owners

In trying to get my fob synced, I notice many variants of the process. I list some of them here, with references, for posterity.

2000MY P38 Owners Handbook (2000Y) sync process:
To Synchronise: Insert the handset into the starter switch; the handset will then be resynchronised.

Workshop manual process:
Up to 97MY, lock or unlock the driver’s door using the vehicle key with 30 seconds of locking, superlocking or unlocking using the remote handset. The BeCM monitors the condition of the driver’s door CDL switch to initiate the resynchronisation.
From 97MY, friendly resynchronisation was introduced on vehicles with passive immobilisation. A remote handset that is not synchronised to the BeCM will automatically be resynchronised when the key is inserted in the ignition without using the vehicle key or Emergency Key Access (EKA) procedure.

RAVE process:
Same as workshop manual (up to 97MY).

LandyWiki process: http://www.landywiki.co.uk/index.php..._and_Security:
Pre 1996.5 MY Vehicles: There is no transponder in the lock cylinder on these, so you have to use the EKA process to unlock the vehicle. This is also useful if the transponder fails or the remote doesn't work on later vehicles.
Post 1996.5 MY vehicles: Unlock the door using the physical lock, and put the key in the ignition. You'll get a beep as you open the door, and when you put the key in the ignition the other doors will unlock after a small delay. They key is now synchronised. (Doesnt make sense as all doors unlock when using the key in the drivers door?).

RangeRovers.net process: Security and Alarm System Operation & Diagnosis on Range Rover 4.0/4.6/P38A
Same as workshop manual.

LandRoverGeeks: http://www.landrovergeeks.com/repair...nge-rover-p38:
Different methods again, see the link above.

Youtube video showing sync: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3seI-KU5S1w&feature=player_detailpage#t=184s]YouTube - ‪P38 Range Rover Battery Drain Test - Becm Sleep Test‬‏[/ame]
Car unlocked: Press remote fob lock button, lock door with key. Press fob unlock button, unlock door with key. Sync'd.

Scott 'Scouse': If you ever need to replace your driver's door latch .....
Lock the door using the key & hold it in the locked position. Then press the lock button on the remote.

Another report on aulro (for a D2?): http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...ml#post1354953
Note 1: Must be carried out in 8 seconds to access learn mode. Best done with two people. You should have both remotes available or second one will not work.

Note 2: If you only have one remote program it twice.
Open hood and have assistant hold hood alarm switch down.
From inside car, with all doors closed, ignition off and all lock buttons up:
Turn ignition on then off (no need to actually start car);
Cycle drivers door button down then up (manually lock driver's door);
Assistant now releases hood switch;
Turn ignition on then off;

If done correctly, horn will beep once and dash LED will light up. This indicates the learn mode has been accessed. If this doesn't happen repeat 1 through 6.

From inside car, push and hold first remote. The dash LED should flash 8 cycles a second for one second indicating that the code was received. If this does not happen repeat steps 1 through 6 again.

Push and hold the second remote, if the code is received the dash LED will flash 8 cycles indicating that the code was received. If this does not happen repeat 1 through 8 again.

Note: Turning the ignition on at any time will cancel the learning process. The system can only store two remote codes and must be done at the same time. If you only have one remote program it twice.

The situation has finally been resolved. Completely. There are three thread that are related, I will finalise them all; here is the list:
- "fob handset sync"
- "Becm waking up"
- "engine disabled"

The solution ,as predicted by many who helped, was to buy the upgraded RF receiver (YWY500170). I got one from Island 4x4 for GBP141. It is very easy to install and requires no resync or setup.

Now the car is sleeping peacefully in the garage and on the street, with doors locked or unlocked. I am very relieved.

I think the main lesson here is that if your car is waking due to these errant signals, get it fixed (or remove rf receiver) before it drains your battery, thereby rattling and ruining your door locks, and confusing your becm into forgetting your fob codes. Better still, dont buy a house with 433mhz radiation around the place.

Sorry for the duplicate posts on these threads.