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Thread: Bonnet respray

  1. #11
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    You sure that stuff will work?!?

    After all, P38's have more computers than Apollo 11.
    Hoo-Roo,

    Dave.

  2. #12
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    very droll indeed
    yep, seen it used on aircraft (C-172), oxidised garage door etc ...all come up looking like new and stayed that way for 5 yrs. At that time, although they still looked quite OK, they were washed with soapy water , rinsed, dried and a new coating put on as a preventive measure...just like that

  3. #13
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    After reading post and checking temp under bonnet I beleve heat could be a problem for lots of things belts,battery,motor,anything rubber but mainly after stopping no air flow so $39 later a chep tubo timer switchers thermo fans on for 2min after turning off key.

  4. #14
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    This sounds excellent to me. I would love to see some before and after temp readings.

    I assume that you just used the existing air con thermos? And ran them off the same turbo timer? If you have any notes on your wiring I would really appreciate it.
    Now: 2005 L322 Vogue 4.4 M62TU (Black)
    Before: 2000 P38A HSE 4.6 - stately capability | 2008 Kluger KX-S | 2004 Forester | 2000 Yamaha XJR1300 | 1993 VR Calais | 1974 HQ Statesman - 308 V8 | HT | HK

  5. #15
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    Some old fashioned bonnet vents would also help to get some of the hot air out from the engine bay. In my younger days we would miss aline ( ie lift) the rear of the bonnet . Hot air out / cold air in / go faster.

    Gary

  6. #16
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    I thought about lifting the back of the bonnet but wasent happy with it and yes just using the standard thermos will try and up load pic when I get a chance.
    Ps i remember Landcrusers having lots of probs with bat,and belt because of heat under bonnet.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoges View Post
    very droll indeed
    yep, seen it used on aircraft (C-172), oxidised garage door etc ...all come up looking like new and stayed that way for 5 yrs. At that time, although they still looked quite OK, they were washed with soapy water , rinsed, dried and a new coating put on as a preventive measure...just like that
    Could that be put on already oxidised panels or is it too late by then?

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grumbles View Post
    Could that be put on already oxidised panels or is it too late by then?
    the oxidised panels were simply washed with soapy water and a brush to remove grit/wax etc and dried off thoroughly, then coated with Nycote. The effect is like what happens when an oxidised boot lid/bonnet is washed then a bucket of water is poured over it...you don't see the oxidised paint until it's really dry...

  9. #19
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    Thanks for that Hoges - it sounds great.

    Now to find out who sells it here and probably the biggie - how much??

    I assume this is what you are referring to -
    NYCOTEŽ 7-11: Meets the specification requirements of MIL-S-4383. 7-11 is a one-component system in clear liquid form. Color tinting available upon request. Tinting can be used to identify parts that have been coated and to improve appearances. NSN: 8010-01-134-0415

    The net isn't that helpfull - drying time?

  10. #20
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    Drying time...touch dry in 30 mins recoat after a couple of hours. Fully hardened in 30 days.

    contact: (02) 9624 8455 . The importers/distributors are a stainless steel manufacturing business at 15 Welder Rd Seven Hills NSW
    They use Nycote extensively for protecting stainless steel in difficult conditions...

    Anti-Corrosive Metal Coating - Liquid Nylon Metal Protective Coating - NYCOTEŽ Laboratories Corp.


    cheers

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