If it's pressurising that quick, it won't be a liner problem causing your current problem.
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If it's pressurising that quick, it won't be a liner problem causing your current problem.
In addition to others comments, try and get the front of the car up higher that the rear.
My method of refilling coolant after draining is to remove top hose and fill rad and engine. Refit top hose and fill expansion tank. Run car for a few minutes, top up if you can and as soon as coolant starts to rise in the tank turn offf the car and leave for several hours. Refill expansion tank and repeat until tank level does not drop. Ensure the small pipe from the rad to the expansion tank is clear.
I just put a new water pump on mine ( THOR) and took a whole weekend to bleed to my satisfaction. A real pain
Wow, I am soooooo hoping that it is a bleed issue guys. If that is the case I'll take the headache and do everything I can as suggested by you guys.
My mate is going to start with a chemical test on the expansion and check for unwanted gases. Hopefully he comes up with none and we just use the methods outlined.
Thanks again, I'll keep all those that are interested posted
Porchy
Stick with it, The first time I Changed my coolant in my mind I had the engine liners slipped, block cracked heads warped and car ready for the scrap yard. That was before seeking advise from those in the know, not those who think they know!
What seems to happen if you follow my method is the coolant gets drawn into the engine as it cools so over a few goes it gets rid of the air. These were the directions given to me by peterjam a font of Land Rover knowledge.
It may not be a motor out job. If the liner is not rattling up and down you may get away with chemi weld. Mine 1998 was trucked down to Perth from Carnarvon where we used a mates mechanic to do the work. He was not use to the RRs but agreed that we were getting a hydraulic log up and proceeded to remove the heads and sent them and the valley cover out to be machined. He then wanted to pull the block and swap it for another. I pointed out that there was no warranty on another block. After talking to a few people it was decided that I would ask him to put it back together and run some chemi weld in it. Drove it back from Perth without a drama and most are telling me that should have fixed the problem which is the porous material in the Block. Talking to a few in the trucking industry and they say it is widely used in the truck industry. I may be proven wrong but at this stage I will keep on driving it till it shows signs.
Jim
The thing that has me thinking it might be something nastier than air in the system is that I drove it from Geelong to the other side of Melbourne after having put it all back together as well as plenty of driving around for a couple of weeks without any problem. Then, all of a sudden in a similar short trip around town and subsequently so, it is overheating and bubbling away.
Don't get me wrong but I would love for it to be something that simple.
Porchy.
No that sounds like it could be something more involved. From what I read I thought the car was straight out of the garage after work.
My understanding was the car boiled over. The thermostat was stuck closed, You changed it for new, refilled coolant and still blowing coolant out.
Unfortunately not Wayne. I wish. It sounds like another bit of dodgy work done by the previous owners mechanic.
The whole experience so far has been a fair nightmare. Facing the head caused (due to obvious previous machining) to have the intake hole not line up properly and require extra work, the bolt holes in the block needed to have inserts put in because the previous mechanic decided to put a couple of larger diameter bolts in with what must have been a rattle gun but the level of tension on the other bolts and the stripping of the thread in the block of the larger ones, hence causing the initial head issue.
Not a good introduction into the world of Rangie maintenance.
Porchy
Which bolts?Quote:
Originally Posted by Porchy
Hmm, any chance he cracked the block?
See JE Robison Service — the blog: The last word on Land Rover liner failures - I hope! and look at the head bolt hole.
It's not your fault porchy, just another amateur mechanic doing things to a Range Rover engine that it wasn't designed for. I hope i don't ever run into that mechanic, he sounds unqualified, and a bit of a dumb so-and-so to me. Like i said earlier, P38 are vehicles that require knowledgeable service done to it that your average ultra tune type place cannot do.Quote:
Originally Posted by Porchy