4 Attachment(s)
Replace OEM bushes- no LR tool needed, just tighten your nuts Part 1
BUMP!!:D
Small drama...haven't driven beloved P38 for 5 months!!:( Illness, lots of other things happening and sloppy steering which I traced to wonky front radius arm bushes ... had the bushes (for 3 yrs at least...sound familiar?), but no special tool to do the job... all that changed earlier this week...
P38 radius arm bushes DIY Replacement "Mission Impossible"
The following post details a method of replacing the standard OEM bushes in a P38 radius arm. The method applies to both front and rear arms.
The "correct" way to replace the bushes is to use a tool designated LRT-60-004. It is in three parts and consist of a cylinder with a slight conical shape plus two "pistons" each with a centred rod to hold the bush. In a press the bush drives squarely through the cylinder where it is compressed sufficiently to transition easily into the register of the radius arm. see LRT-60-004 | Bush Fitting Tool | Bushes | Britpart for illustration
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LRT-60-004 is difficult to source, (I could find no supplier in Aus.) with prices varying between GBP50 (Brookwells UK) and 120 (other LR parts places) plus freight. A new standard bush has a plastic shell encasing the rubber bush. The diameter is 62.36mm +/- 0.51mm (average of 4 bushes). The plastic shell is between 2mm and 3mm thick. The diameter of the bush register in the radius arm is between 58.40mm +/- 0.30mm. So the bush has to be uniformly compressed a tad over 4mm without distortion or damage to the shell.
With the LRT-60-004 it should be a 10 min job to push out the old and replace the new bushes in each front arm and 5 mins for each rear arm excluding removal and replacement time of the arm itself.
I phoned five Land rover workshops in Brisbane earlier this week. None would admit to having ever replaced a P38 radius arm bush! One workshop (independent) "sort of" agreed they "might" be able to do it but the minute I said I had new bushes the tone became distinctly unfriendly despite have spent hundreds of dollars there over the past couple of years. Those in Bris who travel airport drive may have noticed the very large sign announcing a new independent LR workshop. I rang them as well and was promptly told that my vehicle was "too old" and they wouldn't have the tools for it anyway!!! The Redcliffe (MRA) crew were most courteous, very helpful and thought they might be able to assist but the chap I spoke to couldn't recall ever having to replace a set. D2s yes, P38s nah. Green Oval Inc. in Fortitude Valley said bluntly they weren't interested unless they could do the whole job on a drive in drive out basis (min $400+).
Superpro quoted me $235.72 incl GST to supply 4 bushes and four tubes to do the front arms (kit SPF1809K)?and they had only one left in the warehouse... (which means that those who got the kits a while back did extremely well pricewise.;)) This news on the phone resulted in me having
an immediate "philosophical moment" given that it's cheaper to buy stuff exported to the UK, from the UK than buy local AND I could import the damned LR tool for less than the cost of a set of Superpro bushes and if I included a full set of genuine bushes, it would almost be the same price?
Did I mention at this stage that I had already blithely pressed out the originals!?:angel::wasntme:
But as you all know, some things you just can't leave well enough alone. To say I was "snakes" (hissed) is an understatement?
So I went and made a cup of coffee and re-read my "advice" to others on this issue some two years ago. While I had successfully changed out the rears, the fronts were diabolical! I had borrowed a set of ball joint cups etc and I have a 12T Supercheap $168 press! no go. Couldn't keep the damned thing straight, it kept going off-centre etc etc, ballooning the shell and I was worried about ruining the bush. Then a little "miracle' happened.. I read a vague 2010 post on RR.net relating to this matter and there was a step I had forgotten?
So here is a method, it works splendidly and I was able to press all 4 bushes into place in about 30 mins without damaging them.
Preparing the Bush: A 120mm M12 bolt with decent spring washer is placed through the bush. The threaded end of the bolt is placed into a 13mm chuck on a bench press drill, carefully centred then pressed down to compress the spring washer. Then the chuck tightened. This jams the bush between the spring washer and the bottom of the chuck. Turn on drill (400 rpm) to ensure the bush is spinning evenly without too much (less than 3mm) runout and using a rasp, carefully fashion a 6mm rounded chamfer on one end of the bush. Repeat for all 4 bushes. (pic shows "practice run" on used bush)
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https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...014/08/178.jpg
4 Attachment(s)
Replace OEM bushes- no LR tool needed, just tighten your nuts Part 2
Preparing the Radius Arm: Using a Dremel with an "orange" grinding stone, fashion a "rounded" 3mm chamfer on one face of each of the registers in the radius arms.
With the radius arm firmly wedged in a vyse, bits and pieces from the ball joint kit, the bush plus a nut (18mm spanner size), large washers are assembled "kebab" style on 12mm (high tensile) threaded rod and passed through the register and held captive at the other end with another nut/washer and end piece from the ball joint kit which is almost a perfect fit in the radius arm .
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im.../2014/08/1.jpg
The inside of the radius arm bush register, the bush itself and the threaded rod are lubed (I used Lanoline grease). A large jubilee clip is tightened around the bush about 2cm from the radius arm register. Tight enough to be "firm" but not enough to overly compress the plastic shell. The jubilee clip has three purposes i) to provide support against the tendency of the shell to "balloon" under pressure, ii) to act as a gauge to determine if the bush is moving squarely and iii) if the bush gets a bit off track the part of the jubilee clip which touches the side of the radius arm first, will stop that section of the bush proceeding and cause the bush to straighten up!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im.../2014/08/2.jpg
Then it was time to tighten the nuts! I'd tried this before and it was a complete failure! the "miracle" was the small chamfer on the radius arm register - with a bit of effort, the bush began to slide in ! Moved the jubilee clip further back as the bush went in until it reached about 1/2 way. Repeated the process on the second bush and then transferred the whole lot to the press. I possibly could, with a piece of pipe over the ring spanner for leverage, have wound the whole thing home without the need for a hydraulic press - but I didn't have a piece of pipe handy and I don't have that strength anymore to use the spanners by themselves:(
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im.../2014/08/3.jpg
SWMBO being the good sport she always is, was happy to exercise the jack handle of the press while I held the radius arm level - it is quite heavy when you don't have at least three hands! The press made short work of the remainder and the bush slid smoothly into place.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im.../2014/08/4.jpg
I doubt I'll be needing the LRT-60-004 - but it would be nice to have!!