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Thread: Suspension bushing kits

  1. #71
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    Fantastic Hoges. Good description. Make sure you drop me a line next time you are doing a major task and Ill come and help/heckle. I hope you have eliminated the clunk too, I am after that same fix very soon!
    Now: 2005 L322 Vogue 4.4 M62TU (Black)
    Before: 2000 P38A HSE 4.6 - stately capability | 2008 Kluger KX-S | 2004 Forester | 2000 Yamaha XJR1300 | 1993 VR Calais | 1974 HQ Statesman - 308 V8 | HT | HK

  2. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoges

    I'd bought a set of OEM spec rear bushes about 2 yrs ago but hadn't been game to "have a go" until now...

    SO:

    Dropped both trailing arms on the w/e and drilled out the two "rivets" which attach the composite arm to the bush housing (there was a clunking noise which is due to the rivet type fixings stretching).

    The bush housing is a 10mm thick aluminium extrusion.

    I cleaned it up then pressed the bush out using a large socket I borrowed (a 3/4" drive type) and a 12T $160 press ....

    To replace the bushes I carefully chamfered (3mm) them using a fine wheel on the 6" bench grinder I also cut a 2mm chamfer using a Dremel on the bush housing.

    I then heated the bush housing to about 90-100 deg C (as per thermocouple on the multimeter ) with an electric heat gun and , wearing welding gloves held bush/housing together while I "tapped" the lubricated (Lanoline grease) bush into place around the edges with a rubber mallet to get it started "square" in the bore of the housing.

    I then placed the large socket over the bush and bit by bit forced it home with the press.

    The whole job took about 10 minutes for each bush.

    I'm amazed at the compression: The bush was 1.67mm wider than the housing. The lanoline lube worked very well.

    I honed the bolt holes in the bush housing and composite arm slightly (there was only a couple of thou in it) with a 3/8" drill so they would accept a M 10 bolt.

    I'll replace the rivet fixings with M10 10.8 grade coarse thread 70mm bolts plus thread locker and a nyloc nut to 55 ft lbs. (which is about 80% of their yield strength) Bolts to be threaded through from the top.

    More later
    That sounds pretty easy Hoges. I just don't have a bench grinder or 12 ton press avail in shed as yet... Do you reckon it's DIY-able without those?

    Grinder will come one day but I doubt I could ever justify a press. Did you hire one somewhere?
    Hoo-Roo,

    Dave.

  3. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by DT-P38 View Post
    That sounds pretty easy Hoges. I just don't have a bench grinder or 12 ton press avail in shed as yet... Do you reckon it's DIY-able without those?

    Grinder will come one day but I doubt I could ever justify a press. Did you hire one somewhere?
    You could put a chamfer on the bush fairly quickly and accurately with a flat file (I was lazy..hence the bench grinder).

    You need a sizeable force to expel / replace the bushes from the housing. If you had the correct size 'cups' I imagine it would be possible to draw the bush through the housing using high tensile threaded rod with a couple of captive nuts .

    The critical factor is to ensure that the push/pull force on the bush is acting only on the (very) thin outer casing which, when subjected to a compression force while in a closely confined space (i.e. inside the housing) is very strong.

    The precison of all this is critical... you are working with tolerances of between 5-10 thou of an inch.

    This is an example of the press TradeTools - SP05301-TT 20 TONNE SHOP PRESS
    Mine is a 12T jobbie which was on special for about $168... It's come in useful for all sorts of handy applications...including pressing out the bearing etc when I had to replace the viscous coupling in the transfer case.

    Have a look at this

    SPX Catalog - Front

    tool 204-496... there's a similar, but separate one, for the rear bushing. They certainly would take a lot of effort out of the job..

    I've sometimes thought that if we got our act together, a communal kit of specialist tools would be ideal for the P38 brigade! I need to think further on this. I know of a couple of blokes with an obsession for earlier Peugeot marques who seem to do this successfully.

  4. #74
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    Agree with the kit... at least in each capital city. Have theorised about a shared Fault-mate before but it sort of got shot down.

    I am also trying to build an "on hand" inventory of common problem swap out parts. Things like a rebuilt compressor, rebuilt valve block, MAF, crank angle sensor, fuse box, etc. Stuff that can be swapped out to get someone out of trouble or to help eliminate a known common issue prior to visiting a LR garage.
    Hoo-Roo,

    Dave.

  5. #75
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    Medowie, Port Stephens and Sydney
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    Quote Originally Posted by DT-P38 View Post
    Agree with the kit... at least in each capital city. Have theorised about a shared Fault-mate before but it sort of got shot down.

    I am also trying to build an "on hand" inventory of common problem swap out parts. Things like a rebuilt compressor, rebuilt valve block, MAF, crank angle sensor, fuse box, etc. Stuff that can be swapped out to get someone out of trouble or to help eliminate a known common issue prior to visiting a LR garage.
    Id certainly chip in for a "P38 First Aid Kit" that we all manage.

  6. #76
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    I think this will work better for some than others; still an awesome and worthwhile idea, please don't get me wrong!

    We do a fair amount of semi-remote touring with the family and Scouts, so I will be having my own Nano-com and kit with me.

    However, to start things off, I'm in Bendigo, by June i'll have a valve block, driver, pump, orings, and a classic eas ecu (I assume it will work), and a nanocom for anyone who needs them around central Vic. The nanocom i'm not willing to mail out though.

  7. #77
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    UPDATE 27/3/12

    Hello again,

    Just a quick update on the bushes orders.

    Orders are locked in and we are just waiting on a few parts to be procured as suppliers generally don't sit on too much P38 stock. I am pretty confident all will be available for pick up in both Melbourne and Brisbane by the close of this week. Glen, I will PM you details for Brisbane if you are still OK to help?

    Once stock is in hand we will work out delivery via the AULRO Courier Service or direct post if you wish to pay for your stuff to come directly to you ASAP.

    Thanks to all who have paid up promptly, those that are outstanding I have sent reminders, please act or communicate when you can.

    Thanks, Dave.

    P.S. Ron, could you please split out from this thread those posts relating to "AULRO-ian P38a support tools and parts kit". It seems we can benefit from a bit more discussion (& planning) on that front too!

  8. #78
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    Talking Update 4/4/12

    Well the kits are all finally in our posession.

    I have all the rubber stuff on hand in Melbourne and GlenHendry has all the PU bits in Brisbane!

    It seems that the pricing may have worked out better than I thought too, so some partial refunds could be coming soon... will let you know.

    The Courier service has no-one travelling listed now, but I will sort out a post soon so we are at least visible to those members getting around the south-eastern corner.
    Hoo-Roo,

    Dave.

  9. #79
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    PM sent re. Courier opportunity Bris<-> Melb

  10. #80
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    Jan 2008
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    Medowie, Port Stephens and Sydney
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    Hey all,

    I received my bushing kit in time for an Easter trip. A massive thanks to Dave and Glen for your help in getting it to me

    I didn't have time to install myself so passed it on to Graeme Cooper. They installed the lot at a cost of $420 inc gst - so, around $680 all done by my numbers. Definitely better than the $1500 that Pedders had quoted me!

    Image attached of the kit minus the radius arms for anyone interested.

    Thanks again to all involved.

    Dave
    Attached Images Attached Images

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