Thread: Pulling to the left.

Been in an accident maybe? Not sure how you would check for a twisted chassis... Hope it's something else though...

the uprights are welded to the casing, so they are not easily adjusted (but it has been done). when they checked the steering, what readings did they get for the camber and caster etc? how evenly were the old tyres wearing? did they check the rear suspension? does the steering box show any accident damage (twisted output shaft splines etc)? before anything else, make sure the top and bottom swivels are in good condition.

This seems to be a design issue with them. Try driving in the RH lane of a dual carriageway divided road where the camber slopes toward the median strip. I suspect you will find that the front end keeps drifting to the right...

I noticed in one of the "Superpro" polyurethane bushing kits which Glenhendry and Dave DT-P38 organised for a group buy that there was mention of a new design for the radius arm to axle bushings for the P38s which was (quote) ".. To correct strong pull to left (RH drive vehicle) Change of aprox (sic) 1.0 degree in setback"

Does this translate to they are changing the caster by 1 degree?

see also (under the heading Part Information)

SuperPro Trade

I initially thought mine pulled to the left when I first got it, then found it pulling to the right ocassionaly. Mine will pull the same way as the camber of the road. On the classics / disco1 / defender I just adjusted the swivelpin preload a bit tighter (or back to LR specs) and it stopped this.

The p38's I don't think have any swivel pre-load. Inducing more positive caster with the new bushes would make the car track straighter.

If it pulls when on a flat road though, there's something wrong. I'd be taking it to a truck wheel alignment place, or somewhere that only does 4wd's. I was told last year by a generic tyre place that 5-7mm toe in was the norm accros the board for all vehicles - yeh right, and Pedders three years ago were supposedly going to adjust the caster and camber of my Classic - mmm, leaves you wondering.

The optimum toe in/out for the P38 is zero... FWD cars often require a slight toe out to compensate for the torque steer effects, we know about RWD...so common sense also indicates that an AWD like the P38 should be essentially neutral ... (I suggest!)

Thanks heaps guys. We've got a lot to look at.

Post a pic of the wheel alingment report and lets have a look.
All so try crossing the front tyres left to right and if it pulls right its in the tyre then flip the tyre on the rim..