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Thread: What Oil do you use for the P38!!

  1. #11
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Spearwood WA
    Posts
    45
    Everybody to their own , i use Penrite HPR 15 in my 4.0SE 250000km on the clock uses very little oil .

  2. #12
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    1,834
    Penrite HPR10 or HPR15.
    My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Wyoming USA
    Posts
    45
    Complete BS on the synthetic oil statement. Complete lie and myth there.

    I use Mobil 1 10w40 in mine. Doesn't use any oil.

    I go 10000 miles between oil changes. Not only is it better it costs less and keeps the engine running longer.

    Just ask my 117k miles range rover, 145k mile vw passat and 257k mile mercedes. Never rebuilt any of these motors, never used a drop of oil.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    3,051
    Quote Originally Posted by sawtooth4x4 View Post
    Complete BS on the synthetic oil statement. Complete lie and myth there.

    I use Mobil 1 10w40 in mine. Doesn't use any oil.

    I go 10000 miles between oil changes. Not only is it better it costs less and keeps the engine running longer.

    Just ask my 117k miles range rover, 145k mile vw passat and 257k mile mercedes. Never rebuilt any of these motors, never used a drop of oil.
    Not only do you offer unsupported bombastic opinions, but you have talking engines...did they tell you the facts? The real facts are that all engines use oil---otherwise they would seize. Some use less than others for sure. Older engines which are driven relatively short distances often appear to use "no oil" because of the condensation of "blowby" products in the crankcase makes up the volume

    I suggest you do a little research on the ever diminishing levels of Zinc Dialkyl Dithio Phosphate (ZDDP) in modern oil formulations driven by environmental requirements, and the consequential wear caused in flat tappet engines caused by its absence as there is a minimal, if any sacrificial lubricating surface between the cam lobe and the lifter. This in turn can lead to superheating of the point of impact and deterioration of the hardened surfaces with consequent increased wear...

    Modern engines generally use roller tappets...no problems. But flat tappet engines are different and have specific requirements which may/may not be met by modern so-called "synthetic" oils which use different base stocks and additives ... like I said, do your research and especially read the tech info from the major after market cam manufacturers... and see a doctor about this need to ask an engine a question

    cheers

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    1,647
    FREE Magnatec - formula is whatevers specified on Castrol's site.

    Good mate works for the oil co. and keeps me in fluids through his yearly allowance!
    Hoo-Roo,

    Dave.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    871
    Hmm what evers cheap - usually castrol gtx 2 onsale at supercheap auto, it gets swapped every 5-7k and comes out golden clean.

    if only synthetic was so cheap for the 322!
    2002/1994/1988/1984/1981/1973 Range Rover
    1986 Wadham Stringer Range Rover
    and a Magna............
    South Australia.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Pakenham
    Posts
    578
    Quote Originally Posted by jsp View Post
    Hmm what evers cheap - usually castrol gtx 2 onsale at supercheap auto, it gets swapped every 5-7k and comes out golden clean.

    if only synthetic was so cheap for the 322!
    There is only one problem with this is that if the oil comes out clean after 7k of general driving, then the oil is not doing its job properly. You see, there's nothing wrong with black oil when the oil change interval comes around as the 'Blackness' means that the oil is trapping all the carbon contaminents that the engine naturally produces and has to be removed, the best way to remove that is through an oil change. So if your oil is clean after long Km's, then the oil obviously doesn't have any cleaning additives which can cause more harm than good, check it out.

    BTW, oil changes should really be performed every 10,000km/6 months of driving. Unless you do very short trips or extreme driving in dusty conditions, any less is simply a waste of money, no need!!

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    871
    Quote Originally Posted by redandy3575 View Post
    There is only one problem with this is that if the oil comes out clean after 7k of general driving, then the oil is not doing its job properly. You see, there's nothing wrong with black oil when the oil change interval comes around as the 'Blackness' means that the oil is trapping all the carbon contaminents that the engine naturally produces and has to be removed, the best way to remove that is through an oil change. So if your oil is clean after long Km's, then the oil obviously doesn't have any cleaning additives which can cause more harm than good, check it out.

    BTW, oil changes should really be performed every 10,000km/6 months of driving. Unless you do very short trips or extreme driving in dusty conditions, any less is simply a waste of money, no need!!

    Sorry, let me clarify, oil comes out clean since I converted the car to LPG 60,000 k's ago, otherwise came out brown at 5k and black at 7 plus k. Plus when the oil and filter only cost $25-$30 combined its fairly cheap preventative maintenance, and now its not my daily drive so it will be lucky to be done every 18 months.

    My poor p38 needs an engine rebuild/overhall, probably just worn cam lobes, either way its been unopened for 210k and still starts first time everytime

    I let the oil on the deisel go 8-10k mainly because oil and filter is $130-$140.

    each to their own I guess
    2002/1994/1988/1984/1981/1973 Range Rover
    1986 Wadham Stringer Range Rover
    and a Magna............
    South Australia.

  9. #19
    i use fuchs titan ultralube 15/50 and fleetguard filter in mine every 5k in my 5.0L, according to the make up of the oil its got the best particulates for reducing wear on flat tappet cam shaft engines. cost $110 for 20L and cant remember cost on the filter.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    A change is coming.....
    Posts
    12,756
    Quote Originally Posted by Hoges View Post
    Not only do you offer unsupported bombastic opinions, but you have talking engines...did they tell you the facts? The real facts are that all engines use oil---otherwise they would seize. Some use less than others for sure. Older engines which are driven relatively short distances often appear to use "no oil" because of the condensation of "blowby" products in the crankcase makes up the volume

    I suggest you do a little research on the ever diminishing levels of Zinc Dialkyl Dithio Phosphate (ZDDP) in modern oil formulations driven by environmental requirements, and the consequential wear caused in flat tappet engines caused by its absence as there is a minimal, if any sacrificial lubricating surface between the cam lobe and the lifter. This in turn can lead to superheating of the point of impact and deterioration of the hardened surfaces with consequent increased wear...

    Modern engines generally use roller tappets...no problems. But flat tappet engines are different and have specific requirements which may/may not be met by modern so-called "synthetic" oils which use different base stocks and additives ... like I said, do your research and especially read the tech info from the major after market cam manufacturers... and see a doctor about this need to ask an engine a question

    cheers
    I've tried to stay out of this thread, really I have, but geez Louise, synthetics being too slippery and not allowing lifter rotation ? c'mon, surely we're better educated than that here.

    Base oils and the lack of ZDDP have nothing in common.

    You can have a full mineral oil meeting the API SM/GF-4 specs easily (there are many) and they'll chew lobes out just as quickly as Mobil 1 5W-30.

    ZDDP isn't a cure all, it's just a good EP ash additive that works and it's cheap.

    You can additise an oil to have better performance than a ZDDP loaded oil but the additives are more costly, and as you said, most all engines use roller followers these days so anti-scuff resistance isn't as high on an oil formulators agenda.

    There are many full synthetic oils that work well with flat tappet lifters, IIRC Mobil 1 15W-50 works very well, as does any of Redline's engine oils, most all of Motul's oils, etc, but they are also loaded with good EP additives.

    Anything that has 'ILSAC GF-4' or 'Energy Conserving' on the label give a very wide berth for a Rover V8.
    Most importantly you want an oil with an HTHS greater than 3.5.
    This will ensure adequate film thickness at elevated temps.

    IMO a good price compromise is any dual rated Diesel oil, eg a CI-4/SM in 10W-40 or 15W-40 oil should have adequate EP protection and keep the engine really clean.
    Heavy duty diesel oils use a more robust additive package than an equivalent petrol biased oil.

    FWIW, years ago I was involved in a race formula that used a spec engine with flat tappet cams.
    At one stage the entire category had bad cam lobe wear issues, even with heavily additised, race only oils.

    The problem was poor lifter's which weren't radiused properly.

    We had to inspect every single lifter used and measure the taper on the lobes, we rejected many lifters. (insufficient radius)
    It's the combination of radius and taper that ensures lifter rotation, and I've been told the situation isn't much better 15 years later.
    Defenderless for the first time since '01....

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