What Oil do you use for the P38!!

so the golden sticky oil is good then:confused:

I tore down the engine on my mercedes after it was totalled in a wreck. it was built in 1989. No bearing wear period. I've taken other engines apart as well that were run on synthetic. No wear period.

I just pulled the oil pan on my 2000 VW passat V6 with 144K Miles. Clean as a whistle inside. No crank play. Everything looks like new.

Interesting isn't it.

Not only that, but if you follow service intervals on 10000 miles with synthetic you will save money compared to conventional motor oil service intervals of 3000 miles.

My oil changes on my P38 and VW both use 6 quarts. It costs me $36 USA to do it myself. The good conventional oils changes equate to $25 a time. I have to change my oil 3.33333 more times using conventional oils. thats roughly $50 more a year to run crappier oil.

BMW uses a service interval of 15000 miles on synthetic motor oils in its engines as well.

Almost every European vehicle uses synthetic motor oil. BMW, VW, Audi, Mercedes, Volvo etc. I've worked on all of them. And I have seen many pass the 200K mile zone without much if any where on the internals.

I have plenty of proof.

Show me the same proof from you conventional oil.

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Originally Posted by Hoges

Not only do you offer unsupported bombastic opinions, but you have talking engines...did they tell you the facts?:eek: The real facts are that all engines use oil---otherwise they would seize. Some use less than others for sure. Older engines which are driven relatively short distances often appear to use "no oil" because of the condensation of "blowby" products in the crankcase makes up the volume

I suggest you do a little research on the ever diminishing levels of Zinc Dialkyl Dithio Phosphate (ZDDP) in modern oil formulations driven by environmental requirements, and the consequential wear caused in flat tappet engines caused by its absence as there is a minimal, if any sacrificial lubricating surface between the cam lobe and the lifter. This in turn can lead to superheating of the point of impact and deterioration of the hardened surfaces with consequent increased wear...

Modern engines generally use roller tappets...no problems. But flat tappet engines are different and have specific requirements which may/may not be met by modern so-called "synthetic" oils which use different base stocks and additives ... like I said, do your research and especially read the tech info from the major after market cam manufacturers... and see a doctor about this need to ask an engine a question:eek::wasntme:

cheers

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Strewth!:eek: that's very "non-me" ! the 'other me' must have been up late that night...must have a quiet talk to him :blush:

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Originally Posted by zhoey

The same here except I also added a can of Liqui Moly Ceratec and the engine ran so much quieter and improved fuel consumption.

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I was using Mobil 1 in my P38 at one time when I had a leak at the rear LHS corner of the rocker gasket, and the oil that dripped onto the exhaust manifold shield turned into a gooey sticky mess. Even when that cooled down, it was literally thick and gooey like semi-melted road tar. That's when I stopped using Mobil 1 and switched to Valvoline.

However, that does not mean that I am condemning Mobil 1 oils........far from that. I have used Mobil 1 previously in the cars that I own like Mercedes, Mitsubishi, Toyota, Honda, Alfa Romeo, Mazda etc with no ill effects. In fact, I have had cars that I had sold with almost 500,000km on the clock with engines that performed with seemingly no wear & tear, save for the fact that at some point in life, I have had the engine apart to replace the gaskets and oil seals.

Conversely, I must also point out that I had a Mazda RX-8 and it is not recommended the use of Mobil 1 oil for the rotary engine (so other owners of RX engine say) as it clogs and jams the apex seals within. Whether it's because it forms a gooey mess within the engine (the rotary engines require minute amounts of oil to be injected into the combustion chamber for lubrication purposes), I am in no position to comment.

I now use Valvoline with 10,000 km oil change intervals. At this point in time, I am in no position to say if my P38 (now having covered 200,000 miles / 330,000 km) will run on to hit the half million marker.

Only time and luck will tell!

For what its worth, a Castrol rep advised me to use Castrol RX super diesel oil in my D1 3.9 V8, he said that diesel oils have a better additive package than petrol engine oils. I used it for many years until I sold the car and the engine was very clean with no varnish, sludge or any build up of any kind, I was very happy. Also another advantage it came in 20lt drums which saved a lot of money.
I'm considering using it in my p38, I don't see how it can hurt.

Rob

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Originally Posted by Robsrod 58

For what its worth, a Castrol rep advised me to use Castrol RX super diesel oil in my D1 3.9 V8, he said that diesel oils have a better additive package than petrol engine oils. I used it for many years until I sold the car and the engine was very clean with no varnish, sludge or any build up of any kind, I was very happy. Also another advantage it came in 20lt drums which saved a lot of money.
I'm considering using it in my p38, I don't see how it can hurt.

Rob

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It seems that most modern oils, especially the synthetic formulations are so good that the choice of oil each of us choose to use is down to our personal preferences based on petty differences. :twobeers:

I'm using Valvolene Classic 20/50 with a bottle of ZDDPlus added for the sake of preserving the flat tappet cam/lifters. You can get it from Navone Engineering

David Navone - Car Audio Engineering

5 bottles of ZDDPlus Engine Oil Additive US$40 plus $10 shipping

As my old man always said..

Not many cars have died because they had the wrong brand of oil in them, but plenty have died because they had NO oil in them!

Just reviving this thread as I want to do an oil/filter change and there are too many opinions! Need help with what to use in my HSE with 230xxxkm. Synthetic or not? Viscosity?

Also with the oil filter, Z9, Z89a or genuine Land Rover?

I know I'm probably opening a can of worms again but some may have renewed perspectives?