What Oil do you use for the P38!!

The diminishined zddp levels weren't only because of roller rockets. CARB stipulated that cats need to last 100, 000 miles and one of the biggest killers of cats is zinc.

Moving from magnatec to penrite 'full zddp' (what ever that is) has made the lifters and valve gear a LOT quieter listening through the stethoscope.

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Originally Posted by benji

The diminishined zddp levels weren't only because of roller rockets. CARB stipulated that cats need to last 100, 000 miles and one of the biggest killers of cats is zinc.

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Yep, very true, but there are excellent alternatives to ZDDP, unfortunately they aren't anywhere near as cost effective.

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Originally Posted by rick130

That last link is incredibly oversimplified, and in the case of most syn oils not true, as I stated most these days are Group III base, and in the case of most Mobil 1 brews (PAO base) Mobil use alkylated napthalenes and not esters to balance the PAO, and a number of PAO brews still use mineral oil or Group III oils as the additive carrier solvent anyway.

In the LR4x4 thread I explain what the differences are in base oils which is why I linked to it, just couldn't be arsed retyping it all.

It's so much more involved than base oils, and the majority of oils these days are semi-syn mixes anyway, just to meet the demands of modern engines.

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That's why I put the link up to explain it simply that everyone understands, not media spinning jargon.

Now I'm sorry but a website and a magazine publisher specialising in machinery lubrication, It would be fair to say they have enough credentials to validate their claim. Sure most modern oils are Grade III but caution still needs to be adhered to and I stand by this. Its not a case of pour and forget, this is engine oil we're talking about, the lifeblood of an engine.

Just for the record, here's another. http://www.machinerylubrication.com/.../synthetic-oil

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Originally Posted by redandy3575

That's why I put the link up to explain it simply that everyone understands, not media spinning jargon.

Now I'm sorry but a website and a magazine publisher specialising in machinery lubrication, It would be fair to say they have enough credentials to validate their claim. Sure most modern oils are Grade III but caution still needs to be adhered to and I stand by this. Its not a case of pour and forget, this is engine oil we're talking about, the lifeblood of an engine.

Just for the record, here's another. Is Synthetic Oil Better?

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Not sure what you are trying to prove with the last link other than showing the different syn bases (although it doesn't include Group III hydrocracked oils) but that first link was wrong, plain and simple.

If, and it's a big if, a seal was being sealed by contaminants, any decent additised oil, mineral or syn based would 'clean' the debris away and cause a leak in your scenario.
The base oil has bugger all to do with cleaning ability these days, it's the detergent/dispersant package that determines this and modern, dual rated oils are very good in this regard, with some mineral oils being superior to some full syn brews.

Just because something is published doesn't mean it's correct, just as we should take anything written in a message board with a grain of salt. (including anything I write)

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Originally Posted by rick130

Not sure what you are trying to prove with the last link other than showing the different syn bases (although it doesn't include Group III hydrocracked oils) but that first link was wrong, plain and simple.

If, and it's a big if, a seal was being sealed by contaminants, any decent additised oil, mineral or syn based would 'clean' the debris away and cause a leak in your scenario.
The base oil has bugger all to do with cleaning ability these days, it's the detergent/dispersant package that determines this and modern, dual rated oils are very good in this regard, with some mineral oils being superior to some full syn brews.

Just because something is published doesn't mean it's correct, just as we should take anything written in a message board with a grain of salt. (including anything I write)

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It's a big claim you're making, why should we believe you?

I mean what credentials do you have to back your comments?

Because to this point that's exactly how i take your claim, a grain of Salt.

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Originally Posted by redandy3575

It's a big claim you're making, why should we believe you?

I mean what credentials do you have to back your comments?

Because to this point that's exactly how i take your claim, a grain of Salt.

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Can anyone back anything on an internet forum ?

Of course not, as anything can be 'claimed' without ever being able to substantiate anything.

I don't really care if you believe me or not, but I'll call anything I believe to be incorrect and for whatever reason 'oil' appears to be an area a hell of a lot of bull**** gets regurgitated, and it's one place even experienced industry people such as mechanics know **** all about other than marketing guff.

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Originally Posted by rick130

I don't really care if you believe me or not, but I'll call anything I believe to be incorrect and for whatever reason 'oil' appears to be an area a hell of a lot of bull**** gets regurgitated, and it's one place even experienced industry people such as mechanics know **** all about other than marketing guff.

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Well i've already made that call.

Thank you for your comments rick!!

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Originally Posted by davidsonsm

Castrol edge titanium 5W 40 fully synthetic was used and recommended by martin at rova range when installing my rebuilt 4.6. I've stuck with it. He used to build racing boat engines so I trust his advice.

Filters is a whole topic altogether.

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Castrol is a great oil. A workshop in Narre Warren uses Castrol, not sure if it's the titanium or not, but using a ultraviolet light the oil turns bright fluorescent green, making it easy to spot leaks. Must be and additive or something.

At the risk of reopening the can of worms on this old thread :)

I recently picked up a fully rebuilt 4.6 and RPI, whom I do trust with these issues, recommends valvoline VR1 20W50. Of course I have been googling for hours to verify the claims made by holy at RPI and to just educate myself a tad bit on the subject. Having also read this thread I thought I just chip in.

As has been said before, the rover V8 in the basis is just an old engine. It may have been bored up to a larger size, got injection and what not but in the basis it's an old american buick design, with the "tolerances" (if we can speak of it in these terms :angel:) to go with it. Many reasons have already been given as to its use. I would imagine a thinner oil will drain from between the different parts with their rather crude tolerances when the engine is hot and turned of, provided less lubrication when started cold.

According to the data sheet (found here [ame]http://content.valvoline.com/pdf/vr1_racing.pdf[/ame]) the oil does have added zddp and seems ideal for our engines indeed. My only regret is that it only comes in small packaging.

The only real concern I have is that 20W50 is a pretty thick oil al low temperatures and I intend to drive up to the north cape this winter and a flow point of -24 seems a tad bit to low (high?!) for the expected arctic temperatures so I might go for a different oil for that trip only.

Anyone have any thoughts on the valvoline as mentioned above?

Cheers,

Wow!! A bit of blast from the past.

Well things have slightly changed, now with my second P38. I have changed my brand of oil from the Penrite HPR15 over to Nulon 10w - 50 synthetic.
I noticed that Nulon IMO is slightly better again to Penrite, with quieter engine running, minimal sludge, longer lasting, and still locally manufactured.

Sure Rover V8's are old engines, but so are the falcon sixes, Commodore ecotech v6's, GU Patrol 4.2 sixes. They just need a little more TLC, but still easier to work on.