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Thread: EAS, mind of its own!

  1. #1
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    Unhappy EAS, mind of its own!

    Hi all,
    I recently overhauled my 2001 P38 EAS valve block courtesy of "Paulp38a" excellent post.( no leaks )

    I then set about recalibrating the heights using "EAS Unlock" basically to level out the car, but i did reduce the highway mode by 10mm. Everything fine for first couple of days until the wife and I went to the camping show at Rosehill, when the car started to go up and down at the front like some sort of "pimp" mobile in standard mode, (embarrassing! ).

    To over come this I set it to highway mode and all seems fine. I'm leaning toward height sensors as the culprit, but i find it more than strange. Needless to say the compressor is going out of its mind playing pimp.

    Any help from you kind folk in diagnosing this would definitely help me from going out of my mind!!!
    Last edited by Robsrod 58; 24th April 2012 at 07:27 PM. Reason: wrong credit

  2. #2
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    check out this fopr correct calibration procedure
    Height limits on EAS using Faultmate post #3

    The EAS ECU has inbuilt algorithms which calculate the specific heights from the sensor bit counts and sets the relativities between them... once you go outside the boundaries of the default settings you can get the sorts of behaviour you described. you can make alterations to all the heights...e.g. raise/lower them all by 10mm and maintain the relativity ...but making individual significant changes causes "mayhem"!!

    If everything is absolutely set to standard and the valve block is ok but there are still issues, the EAS driver block which is bolted to the valve block may be the culprit. Its electronics are sealed in resin which tends to break down with the heat and ultimately the Driver's performance deteriorates...

    If you need a replacement, check out the prices from Airbag Man here in Qld and compare them with the usual UK online suppliers...

    cheers

    EDIT on re reading your post, you may have issues with the check valves... if you put lubricant on the tiny o-rings to assist their proper seating...it will cause them to leak resulting in the front end rising to max height. They must be totally dry and free of any grease or other contaminant to seal properly

  3. #3
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    I'm having similar problem now after i replaced the rear left sensor with a new one. Can anyone tell me if on the left side the link arms are meant to face forward or rearward. I can't remember after taking off the old one.

    Also does the fact that i've got a newer type sensor on the left over an older on the right cause conflict at all?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by redandy3575 View Post
    I'm having similar problem now after i replaced the rear left sensor with a new one. Can anyone tell me if on the left side the link arms are meant to face forward or rearward. I can't remember after taking off the old one.

    Also does the fact that i've got a newer type sensor on the left over an older on the right cause conflict at all?
    Elbow join of RL sensor arms faces to the rear as does that of the RH rear. AFAIK all sensors work on a 0-5V range so there should not be any difference ..but you should recalibrate it as per the post mentioned previously.

    If the front is rising randomly, I'd be examining the check valves as well as making sure the respective solenoid o-rings were properly seated and that the "pistons" were put back correctly

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoges View Post
    check out this fopr correct calibration procedure
    Height limits on EAS using Faultmate post #3

    The EAS ECU has inbuilt algorithms which calculate the specific heights from the sensor bit counts and sets the relativities between them... once you go outside the boundaries of the default settings you can get the sorts of behaviour you described. you can make alterations to all the heights...e.g. raise/lower them all by 10mm and maintain the relativity ...but making individual significant changes causes "mayhem"!!

    If everything is absolutely set to standard and the valve block is ok but there are still issues, the EAS driver block which is bolted to the valve block may be the culprit. Its electronics are sealed in resin which tends to break down with the heat and ultimately the Driver's performance deteriorates...

    If you need a replacement, check out the prices from Airbag Man here in Qld and compare them with the usual UK online suppliers...

    cheers

    EDIT on re reading your post, you may have issues with the check valves... if you put lubricant on the tiny o-rings to assist their proper seating...it will cause them to leak resulting in the front end rising to max height. They must be totally dry and free of any grease or other contaminant to seal properly
    Thanks Hoges, The only grease I used was "Inox", sparingly, and also not on the check valves.
    The problem is not a leak as overnight its very stable, so I'll bring everything back to as close to standard and see what happens. It just seems strange it didn't do it straight away.

    Rob

  6. #6
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    Rob, it's most definately one of, or both of the front height sensors. Basically the ecu isn't getting a valid signal so it goes searching for one by pumping the effected corner up and down. Front ones IME are the first ones to go, maybe because of the heat. Your back ones may be fine for another 5 years or so, so don't change them all. If it were your valve block, it would be raising and lowering the front at all height settings.

    Your lowered HWY mode seems fine; if you did go to low, or too high for that matter the ecu reverts back to the previously stored heights (well that's what it did to me anyway). How does it ride at the lower setting?

    Redandy, having different height sensors (even old classic ones) with new ones etc are fine. Different model height sensors seem to be slightly different in terms of resistance, so you'll need to recalibrate that corner. I had a sensor off a 2000 on my classic, and once I recalibrated the height settings (and they were drastically different) it worked fine.

  7. #7
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    Talk to me more about recalibrating?, are you revering to adjusting the height or something else? Can this be done with a kicker?

  8. #8
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    I've just spent my Anzac day going over what I did when I o/hauled valve block. I checked the solenoids on the top of the valve block, guess what I found, the stupid bugger (me) that put it together swapped one of the actual pressure part of the valves around, so that one of the front airbag valves was different to the other.
    I checked all the top valves after correcting my error, all Ok checked height setting with EAS unlock and made minor adjustments to normal height ( all well within standard range), took it for a reasonable test drive with fingers crossed, and all good for the moment, even the pump seems happy!

    If this was the fix, the culprit must have been leaking air into the airbag and the other one was playing catchup until, EAS said "too high" and dropped the front back down to normal height, so starting the whole process off again, hence "pimp mobile". Does that sound logical?

    Rob

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by redandy3575 View Post
    Talk to me more about recalibrating?, are you revering to adjusting the height or something else? Can this be done with a kicker?
    Recalibrating is rewriting the bit counts in the EAS ECU memory so that the ECU sends the vehicle to the correct height ...I don't have a 'kicker' but AFAIK it does not allow for recalibration...it simply reads memory for faults and clears them...unless they are the result of some mechanical malfunction, in which case they can't be cleared properly until the underlying cause is fixed.

  10. #10
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    Rob - glad to hear you found the culprit. Did you accidentally swap the internal solenoid plunger for one of the Exhaust or Inlet solenoids? The Inlet and Exhaust solenoid plungers are a large-ish rubber foot while the air spring solenoid plungers are rubber inserts within a brass ring.

    Redandy and Hoges - The EAS Kicker (not the Kicker Lite) will allow re-writing of EAS values to assist with recalibration. I have tried it and it works, but I prefer the EAS Unlock Cable with RSW Solutions' EAS Unlock Suite.

    Cheers, Paul.
    My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com

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