I believe someone here tried cross linking in the past as an experiment, very dangerous... For hardcore off roading it would be great, for normal dirt and high range duties what we already have is quite competent!
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I believe someone here tried cross linking in the past as an experiment, very dangerous... For hardcore off roading it would be great, for normal dirt and high range duties what we already have is quite competent!
In addition to my comments/weird ideas of the link... you could add a panel of interlocked push-buttons to give you:-
L-R connection on each axle.
F-R connection on EACH side, either LEFT or RIGHT sides, or simply BOTH. This would imitate the ride of 2-tonne Morris 1500 or Austin 1800.:p:p:p
Crowning glory ... "X" linking each diagonal corner (Left-Front to Right- Rear etc) to keep the body more level when the axles are crossing...
Rather than a pickle-switch, a trigger for UP and a top-mounted button for DOWN would be intuitive.
Also, the now-redundant suspension height sensors could drive four vertical bar-graph LEDs.
I'd suggest either a bigger tank (or an additonal one) or bigger, or another compressor, 'cos you'll be playing with the air a LOT ! :D
As a silent alternative, - and I have'nt investigated the logistics apart from price ($300 or so last year) - Use an aqualung tank... with a regulator to drop from 100,000/whatever psi down to 150. Some sand-drivers use them for Very Quick tyre re-inflation. Refilling was around $35 when last checked.
Valves are relatively cheap...
4V210-08 DC 12V 2 Position 5 Way 5 Solenoid Valve Connected Base Muffler | eBay
As Keithy said, linking side to side is ONLY for off-road at sensible speeds. Or lack or speed...
ok so was going to start own post but its eas so why not....
Yesterday I discovered that if you press the inhibit switch then select the height you can select freeway height ........ Makes the car a more sporty feel round the city thats for sure lol. Was I the only person who didnt know about this brill feature ?
In short, yes!
It mentions this in the owners manual!
Hardy, the PO of my blue P38 did a cross-link setup on the EAS. He reckoned it was diabolical, even at low speeds, and removed it long before he sold the car to me in 2008.
I still have the switches on the dash but have re-purposed them to run the LED driving lights. The solenoids for cross-linking are long gone.
Cheers, Paul.
I'd like mine to work.
Connecting fore & aft would cause a reaction to speed humps like a (two+ tonne) Morris 1500... both ends go up/down as each traverses the speed-hump. :p