Thread: Thor Fuel pump renew. Fuel filter Renew. Fuel level sender clean

Just an add to this thread. The original fuel pump is a Bosch 38mm body. If you are looking for a generic pump look for a 38mm one and it should fit exactly into the fuel filter. You will then only need to replace one hose with R10

....... it will all be very obvious.
Enjoy you big day

Here is a link to the same seller with his current listing, It looks the same pump but cant guarantee 100%. Still cheap as chips though and worth keeping one ready for the day. New 255LPH HP Fuel Pump High Pressure in Tank for Honda Ford Toyota | eBay[/QUOTE]


Above, from wayneg, and I have to learn how to use this system, but ....

The Ebay link exists, and the product does, but that seller refuses to ship their pump from HK to Australia. Obviously, someone is unhappy. Perhaps they or others are selling it in Australia already, at a much higher price. Mmm... Who, where and at what price? Any ideas?

Originally Posted by garybrook

....... it will all be very obvious.
Enjoy you big day

Here is a link to the same seller with his current listing, It looks the same pump but cant guarantee 100%. Still cheap as chips though and worth keeping one ready for the day. New 255LPH HP Fuel Pump High Pressure in Tank for Honda Ford Toyota | eBay

Above, from wayneg, and I have to learn how to use this system, but ....

The Ebay link exists, and the product does, but that seller refuses to ship their pump from HK to Australia. Obviously, someone is unhappy. Perhaps they or others are selling it in Australia already, at a much higher price. Mmm... Who, where and at what price? Any ideas?[/QUOTE]

See my latest link to a pump in this recent thread.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/p38a-range...it-repair.html

This is a great thread. I hereby attached THOR fuel pump photos. Mine had completely fused, and the replacement pump wayneg suggested slid into the filter with no issues. See two pics of burnt fuel pump. As previously suggested by someone, it probably burned out due to cranking while run out of fuel. Or, because it was 14 years old.

1) Pay attention to waynge's note about putting the pump assembly rubber seal into the tank hole first, it is important, and not obvious, and a little tricky but totally doable within a minute or two.

2) When you rip off the OEM hard plastic hose from pump to filter, it is not reusable in my opinion. While I used hot water to soften it and slowly work it off, it was a mess and I wouldn't trust the seal if reused. I think it is heat-shrunk on there initially - probably to avoid the use of in tank worm-drive hose clamps.

3) Autobarn, bursons and SCA don't have fully stainless clamps, but Repco do.

4) The clamp on the pump has to be very carefully positioned, otherwise it widens the pump width and wont go down into the snug slot in the filter. Get the smallest clamp you can that will fit. I got Size 02, and Id suggest that size 01 will work better. See two attached pics.

5) The fuel pump assembly for the 1997 THOR looks surprisingly different (esp the way the top section is joined to the bottom section) to the assembly on the 2000 THOR. However the pump and filter and sender gauge are all compatible.

6) My fuel tank inside was a whitish colour, and I was concerned that there was a thick layer of mud and silt from the glasshouse mountains in it, but upon stirring the bottom of the tank, it was perfectly clear. Amazingly so for a 15 car with 285kkm.

Fuel pressure tester guages - I bought a expensive kit from Burson's with a multitude of fittings, for trucks cars etc. It wont fit!!! We have a normal schrader valve on the fuel rail, the tester had a schrader valve but the larger size and no matter what adaptor I tried in the kit, it wasn't right. You need a schrader to schrader reducing adapter called, wait for it, a 'ford adapter'.

Unfortunately - the new pump did not solve my problems. I have had a long term fuel trim of -9% on both banks for months. I have tried 54 things. I am confident that I am running at stochiometric, as the LTFTs stay there, and the STFT and O2 sensors are happy, but for some reason my THOR ecu has to pull out 10% of fuel from the MAP to get there. TBC.

Fuel tank/pump part numbers: for posterity:

ESR1073 - PUMP-FUEL-ASSEMBLY TANK (to TA323950)
ESR3931 - PUMP-FUEL-ASSEMBLY TANK (from TA323951 to VA376579)
STC4345 - PUMP-FUEL-ASSEMBLY TANK (from WA376580 to XA410481)
WFX101090 - PUMP-FUEL-ASSEMBLY TANK (from XA410482 to XA430701)
WFX101390 - PUMP-FUEL-ASSEMBLY TANK (to YA430702)

NTC5859 - SEAL-FUEL PUMP UNIT TANK (to WA410481)
ESR3806 - SEAL-FUEL PUMP UNIT TANK (from XA410482)

ESR2970 - Fuel Tank (to WA410481)
ESR4039 - Fuel Tank (from WA376580 to XA410481)
WFE107020 - Fuel Tank (from XA410482)

Excellent additions. Knowing that a Gems assy can be used for the sender unit and pump could be a great help to someone.
As I said you have to replace that one hose, hopefully you used R10 submersible or you will be doing it again in a few months.
On my final fit I did not use worm drive clamps, I used the rings with ears that you squash, they are better for this application according to Pirtek

Interesting, I wish I had know about those. They look like just the ticket. I did use R10 hose.

However, I do -not- get the whoosh of vacuum upon opening the fuel filler lid. And I am as confident as I can be that the fuel pump assembly seal and its metal locking ring are on and tight. Maybe my tank cap is u/s? I had my ear up against the fuel pump seal when it was running and no hissing was heard. I do have a whine that is audbile from evryone in the car though, and I was hoping the new fuel pump would fix that noise.

Sadly, my cheap aftermarket pump is the noisiest thing imaginable. My family refuses to get in the RR now, and it is driving me crazy. A continuous and wavering whining sound sometimes close to a screech. It is being removed pronto.

I am going to get a genuine bosch pump and install it into the fuel pump assembly.