Point taken.... But the question is, are these additives designed to block leaks, or destroy engines?? Cause all different leak sealant seems to made from different materials, so what is good , and what's not??Quote:
Originally Posted by mike 90 RR
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Point taken.... But the question is, are these additives designed to block leaks, or destroy engines?? Cause all different leak sealant seems to made from different materials, so what is good , and what's not??Quote:
Originally Posted by mike 90 RR
It may surprise many to find out that stuff similar to Barrs Leak is used by some well known OEMs on their engine production lines to guard against porosity. When coolant changeover is done as part of the service, this "stuff" is renewed as well...It's not only Rover engines which suffer from porus blocks and slipped liners!;)
lol... I don't think so Tim...Quote:
Originally Posted by DeanoH
Quote:
Originally Posted by isuzurover
"O ye of little faith" ............................. :D:D
Nothing like a bit of a challenge, I hunted around in the depths of the garage and found this.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/11/391.jpg
They even have a website. Young's Super Seal - Cooling System Sealant
according to the website.......................
What's in it?
Without giving the trade secret away it is made from a blend of natural organic fibers. Super Seal is a fine dry multi-tone brown powder with a mild organic odour. Processed a special way to enhance features of the organic fibers and enable them to react as a sealant in water. Unlike other sealants it is safe to handle, if released onto the road will not affect the environment and starts working to plug the leaks within in a few moments.
Certainly looks like crushed peanut shells, which is what I was told.
Isn't a Qld. product though made in Victoria. :)
Deano :)
Irontite all weather seal is one of the best to use.
The thoro flush and ceramic sealer are also excellent but a lot more work to complete the entire process.
The all weather seal will sort out minor leaks, ceramic seal is for porous block type leaks.
Dave
To true Hoges, Mitsubishi, DAF, Kenworth are a few I've heard of that put it in, they wouldn't put it in if it didn't work - not on a $20,000 engine.
I'd say the existing holes in my old radiator and heater were small enough to be clogged up by the stop leak; in a new radiator it'd be fine.
Another reason to get the radiator rodded every two years....
It's cheaper to replace radiators instead of paying to get it rodded.Quote:
Originally Posted by benji
Where do you buy them from ??????
My Classic is due a rodding or a new radiator... got a leak around the soldered (?) seam from the last rodding by a nationally franchised company.:angel:
Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order. - Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order.
Brand spankers to your door ratiator for bugger all...
I have recently replaced my radiator. New from Karcraft in Silverwater for $307. Interestingly when I took the old one out, the passenger side, front face was chock a block with black crud. The steering fluid hoses seem to very slowly seep and I have put it down to this vapour or mist getting blown through the radiator and depositing with dust, dirt and grime on the front face. I was going to blame an oil leak from the oil cooler thats located directly in front, but the oil cooler was clean and couldnt see any signs of oil leakage (at least in that area). May make pulling out and cleaning,flushing the radiator a yearly maintanence item.