Actually it does assist... you empty the Hkn bottle first:D then use the empty to catch the coolant dribbles as you remove "all the bits" :wasntme:Quote:
Originally Posted by Sidewinder76
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Actually it does assist... you empty the Hkn bottle first:D then use the empty to catch the coolant dribbles as you remove "all the bits" :wasntme:Quote:
Originally Posted by Sidewinder76
Do not confuse the refilled beer bottle with a fresh one or you will surely get much more than a hangover ;)
Well I must admit that I hadn't concidered that but it is rather a good idea. I'll be sure to only drink the cold ones Paul!
So the next chapter....
I am now at the stage where I am about to remove the dash top. This was made somewhat easier and some time was saved due to the fact that there was only one bolt on the passenger side holding the dash on. I shall have to visit a hardware store to ensure that it has all four when it goes back in. Somebody who owned it prior to me must have believed in willpower to hold it all in place!
So I have made my way into the bowels of the interior and managed to remove the matrix. It is rather tricky removing it and in particular past the dashboard supports and the wiring loom. Getting the matrix undamaged past these parts is the most taxing part of the process as far as I am concerned. I had the luxury of wrestling a broken one past this but I am hoping that it is somehow easier to replace the new one. I will obviously replace the o rings while I am in there. I am off to visit ebay.
Oh yes. and the steering column is really in the way. Has anyone removed a steering column in the past? Any hints or tips?
I assume you have gotten it out by now...... I didn't think it was really easy or even achievable to get the matrix out without taking the heater box out?
Gives you a chance to easily make sure the AC drains are clear from the top :)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/12/327.jpg
I have got it out by loosening the heater box and the frame work that supports the dash on the drivers side. It was hard to get it past the steering column and I had considered removing the column to get the new one in. I have undone the four bolts on the heater box but I think that the air con pipes are holding it in place. How/where do I undo these? Will I have to regas as I have just spent $1300 on a new ac pump, dryer and installation fees so am keen to avoid touching the ac if I can?
From memory I had to bend/persuade the metal dash supports to get the heater box out. Ron might pipe p he's had his out a few times also more recently.
The AC matrix is sepreate and behind the heater box, no need to remove / degas. You can see it in the below picture with the heater box removed.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/12/132.jpg
The matrix can be removed without that structure butchery as described in the "how to" text.
First remove the centre dash appendages and HVAC head etc and glove box.
Remove the wiper cover panel below the windshield (windscreen) etc to expose the fixing bolts which hold the whole dash assembly to the bulk head.
Loosen off the heater core transfer tubes and extract.
Now with a bit off jiggling you should be able to pull the dash back about 3 inches which wil, just enough to slide the matrix unit out.
If you can get a coolant pressure tester install your new matrix WITH NEW O rings, and connect up with the dash losely in place. Raise the pressure to 16psi (1 bar) and let it hold that for several hours. If there is no leak carry on building. If not the most likely leakage point will be at those O rings.
Best of luck
Dennis
zedcars
I bought my 97 HSE with the heater bypassed. This was not mentioned by the seller when I asked if the heater worked & any faults showing on the HEVAC. His reply was something along the lines of, "It all works, just got a blown globe behind the screen"
So, after I bought the car via photos and a couple of 20 minute phone calls, I drove it home to Werribee from the Gold Coast. It drives great.
Now, back to the heater.
The Rangie is now unregistered and parked up. To get it registered, I need a RWC, for a RWC, I need the heater working.
I have read heaps on the joys of P38 O-rings on AULRO & rangerovers.net.
I followed the procedures and without cutting ducts, I successfully accessed the o rings. I removed the pipes, had a mate repair the pitted pipework on the engine bay side.
Today was the day, back in under the dash. After soaking the Orings in coolant overnight (while doing another 12h nightshift), I refitted the Orings and pipes.
I was careful not to overtighten the screw. I didn't reconnect the pipes to the cooling system, rather just filled the core with clean water. After a few seconds, hey presto, clean water dripping onto a carefully prepositioned rag! :censored:
The heater core is leaking - not the new Orings. :mad:
Has anybody here done the Audi A6 heater core conversion? Heater core O rings... - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum
The core, from ebay, delivered to Australia for less than $80
VistaPro/Proliance 399910 HEATER CORE | eBay
I think I might give it a try Afterall, I've still got a big list of stuff to do for the RWC.
The only thing that I'm already dreading is the steering column.
Cheers,
HEYVJ