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Thread: p38 advice

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    Changing a rear bag is very simple. Jack up the offending side and remove the wheel (by jacking up the chassis). Remove the air line. Remove the "R" clips top and bottom (hence the coat hanger tool - make one end into a hook), wiggle the old one out and the new one in!

    The fronts are a bit more involved. It helps to remove the inner guard but it can be done with the inner guard in place. Remove the air line, remove the 2 small clips on the top of the spring, jack the chassis up, undo the small bolt that holds the bottom "R" clip (13mm from memory), remove the said clip, out with the old and in with the new!

    The hardest part is getting the air lines off and back on again! I replaced one in the bush in less than 20mins with only my teeth and a nail file (ok - I kid, I used a screwdriver and a bottle jack)!!

    Easy done

  2. #12
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    Jan 2012
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    Bendigo
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    A little thing I discovered the other day was that if you leave the bonnet or tailgate open, the becm won't go to sleep. I left it open all afternoon and all night didn't I - very slow to start the next morning. So you may want to manually lock the latch in the middle of the lower tailgate if your worried about battery drain.

    I'd also pay to check that the wheel liner on the front passenger side is secure. Others will post in, but I don't think the intake is as water safe as the older rangies.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
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    Dapto
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    thanks heaps guys for all the help,i have one more question if anybody is still reading this post.
    this weekend just gone i decided to take the rangie for a bit of a play
    but i stuffed one of my tyres wich has just made me have to get muddies a bit sooner, i currently have 18s but am in the market for 16s and wandering what's the biggest size for a mickey thompson mtz or bfg km2?
    sorry if this has been answerd a thousand times before but i havnt had much time to search yet
    cheers

  4. #14
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Canberra
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    depends if you want to keep the spare in the spare wheel well or not.

    If you do, stick to standard size or less than 20mm taller.

    If you don't care, go no larger than 30.5-31" tyres or you will have bad scrubbing.

    Keep width to 265 or less to avoid scrubbing guards on articulation.

    Can recommend the KM2's and like Maxxis Big Horns also.
    My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    Yeah I've got 255/70/16 BFG KM2's on mine (one size up from standard), they rub lightly on articulation, however, there is a lad running 265/75/16 KM2's and he seems to feel that the rubbing isn't too bad, if only under articulation then that's not a bad thing, provided its not too much scrubbing.

    I had to remove my front mudflaps to be able to turn with my tyres, and my spare tyres fit in the wheel well provided I've completely deflated them.

    Cheers
    Keithy

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
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    I bought km2 in a 32 (265/75/16) and no regrets. No front mud guards and very rare minor scrubbing. Well rare off road even on full articulation and only minor scrub on corners in highway mode and hit a big bump. But no damage and only minor black marks on rear nothing on front.

    But need packers for bump stop in case of a blown bag. But I have spare bags, and thanks to Paul I also have the emergency eas kit he supplied and made a switch to turn the eas off. Last thing you want is to be on the bump stops and drive while scrubbing.

    See this thread I started. They are border line.

    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/p38a-range...re-thread.html


    As Paul said, spare wheel no longer fits in wheel well when the km2's are on

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    Did you end up changing your gearing with the 32's or does the old girl cope pretty well with them? How does your speedo now read at 100km/h?

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keithy P38 View Post
    Did you end up changing your gearing with the 32's or does the old girl cope pretty well with them? How does your speedo now read at 100km/h?
    No haven't changed the diffs because for the 10% odd taller gearing I couldn't justify spending $2k on diffs.. Il Although the rear will eventually be a ashcroft locker so could change the front as well to a shorter ratio. But I plan on going back to the stock HT's for most of my driving as I just bought a spare pair of rims finally so then again probably not.

    I still have my front bull bar to sort, finally get round to getting my rock sliders fabricated and whatever other under body protection I can find or get made, so an extra different front diff is even less likely now I think about it.

    The speedo is about 10% under so 100 on speedo is 110, 80 almost 90 etc. The speedo originally read slightly under. Doesn't bother me too much though because 10% is a good number.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    That's the go! And you're aware of it so it shouldn't give the government too much of your hard earned!

    You'll love that locker once you get it! Mine cops it off road and keeps coming back for more!

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
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    Yeh its on the to do list.. I remember you praising it a few months back.

    My rear end makes a slight tick when I go from forwards to rear. Was told its normal for a Range Rover. Guess it's just slack in the driveline as its only when going from forwards to rear and vice versa... Be good excuse to put the new locker in just in case its more than slack huh

    Peter

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