The engine makes the cranking sound, but doesn't actually start.Quote:
Originally Posted by radste
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The engine makes the cranking sound, but doesn't actually start.Quote:
Originally Posted by radste
I had a similar problem a while back. Rectified by fitting a new crank position sensor.
Some thoughts
1. Given the engine is turning over OK and you think you can hear the fuel pump, have you depressed the schrader valve in the end of the fuel rail to confirm that there is pressure getting to the injectors?
2. If it's cranking over but there's no fuel, recheck to ensure the fuel pump is actually working. If it is not working it's either a dud fuel pump (check fuse and relay!) or you may have a synchronisation issue between the BECM and the Eng Mgmt system (EMS) (it's part of the security system).
You need a Faultmate or Nanocom etc to read both ECUs and to rewrite the EMS value (3 digit code) into the relevant field in the BECM memory. If you have either diagnostic tool it's a simpe 3 minute task.
In older vehicles this can happen (x2 for me in 7 yrs) esp if the starting battery has been allowed to deteriorate. :wasntme: A well maintained strong battery is essential for good P38 health!
3. If any any one of the fuses mentioned in my previous post are u/s, the engine will not start. They are numbered according to the diagram under the lid of the fuse box in the engine bay.
4. While a CPS may be the issue, I'd try other options first. The reason being that with the redesign / upgrade the CPS on the Thor engine was a different design and is located in a different part of the engine. They are far more reliable compared to the CPS fitted to GEMS engines.
hope this helps if only to narrow down the problem!
I am with Hoges on this and would still check the fuel pump again. You may be lucky and get it going by whacking the fuel tank ( from underneath and near centre) with a decent lump of wood whilst someone cranks the motor. I had similar problem with mine a few months back but the old whack on the tank and it was right to go. ( Trick from an old NRMA road assistance guy) My fuel pump has not repeated the problem now for a number of months and given your car was fine for days after your electrical playing, doubt that has anything to do with it. Best of luck with it but do the easy tests first and make sure you have plenty of battery power
thanks everyone for your advice, after having a far more mechanically minded friend come over we have determined that it looks like the fuel pump has given up. All fuses and relays appear to be working fine (swapped relays around and checked fuses) but only got a release of fuel from the valve on 1 attempt and it was only a very small amount, not the gush we were told to expect. PeterAllen, I may try your tip when I get home this afternoon lol :D but for the moment, I will be calling Canberra Motorworks and seeing how much this is going to hurt :o
DandT give the tank a few whacks whilst kicking it over and if the fuel pump has any life left in it you will be pleasantly surprised. I have used this on at least a dozen occasions in my 20 odd years of RR addiction. You will still need to replace the fuel pump at some point in time to be safe but this tip works if the pump's not totally knackered. As I stated earlier a mature aged NRMA guy go me going when I first had a fuel pump fault in my RRC many many years ago. ( Needless to say a lump of wood is always carried).
It worked well in my D1 as well. I carried a rubber mallet in the boot to give it a whack whenever it gave up.
You can only buy the whole sender unit and pump assembly as a "Part" for the Thor these are big $$$$$$$.
I have successfully found an identical pump after a couple of trys and its going strong. If you do fit a generic pump then 101% make sure you use R10 fuel hose, I will say that again.. ONLY USE R10 FUEL HOSE.
The link to the pump I posted is still good and they are only $26 each. I urge anyone with a Thor car to buy one whilst they are still available so cheap
See
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/p38a-range...der-clean.html
An observation: wacking fuel tank with a rubber hammer, smacking alternators with a solid hammer to unclog brushes (another NRMA roadside "trick") .... Neil Armstrong's legacy obviously lives on :eek::angel::D
Having removed the fuel tank, suggest you search these threads for the one on the measurements for cutting an access hole in the floor for future maintenance. It's a lot easier to do if you have removed the tank. Just a friendly word of warning to be extremely careful of the potential for fire when you remove the pump from the tank... a near empty tank plus spark is a lethal combination.... Good luck with it.