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From what i have read it is not a good ides to put an uprotected (narva 68000) or even a resistor protected relay in a P38. The relays must be diode protected.Quote:
Originally Posted by tasi devil
That is why I went for the Hella, since Narva don't list a diode protected Normally Open 4 pin relay.
It will probably be OK for the HEVAC relays, but i would not put an unprotected relay anywhere else in the P38.
Regards
Steve
Steve, it said in their Narva cataldog that it was diode protected, but seeing it hasn't worked i'll put the old one back in. next week i'll source a Hella one as you suggestedQuote:
Originally Posted by SteveFarmer
okay been fiddling with the EAS between other stuff, pulled the filter off the exhaust port while compressor was running to see if the Diaphragm was leaking (it wasn't) but when it stopped there was a sharp rush of compresed air out of the exhaust port (it has a new orange diaphragm) & the tank lost app. 200Kpa then the compressor started again :mad:.
so got another job to do first then i'm pulling the whole bludy thing apart again
It's kinda weird Narva have diode protected 5 pin normally open diode protected but not 4 pinQuote:
Originally Posted by tasi devil
Normal Open 4 & 5 - Products - Narva
If the new relay hasn't worked i think your assumption that it is the blend motors which are the problem is most likely correct.
The protection on the relays does not make them operate any differently, but it does suppress the voltage spikes which are generated every time a relay switches and the contacts arc.
Resistor protected relays could be thought of as "soft protected" and diode as "hard protected" i.e. the diode protection is instantaneous.
Since a lot of these relays switch electronics in the P38, the last thing any of us want is for the BECM etc to be hit with voltage spikes
Good luck with it all
Regards
Steve
Steve, you are correct, lesson learnt ...... even when you've written down what's required & given it to the Salesperson who confers with their boss about the alternative :mad:
So, been checking for leaks ... none on any airbag connections or into valveblock/bypass
pulled it all out changed over Pressure switch, put old Diaphragm back in rebuilt Exhaust valve solenoid
still takes a long time to come up to pressure, still doing it in stages & drops 100-200kpa each time compressor stops & the body does a little shimmy.
can understand why people go to coils :wasntme: & forsake the most incredible ride on/off road
There could very well be a tiny leak somewhere, but I'd be stump to know where it is.:confused::confused::confused::confused::confus ed:Quote:
Originally Posted by 33chinacars
Done exactly what you did except the diaphragm which is the orange one. I'm telling ya, it's got to be the norm, as everyone else's do the same. Another thing I found in the past when your ride calibration is out, this tends to muck around with the compressor also. I went to a perfect flat Carpark armed with my kicker and measure chart and re-calibrated all the ride height carefully which made the car ride so much better and the height settings adjust swiftly and settles the compressor only slightly.Quote:
Originally Posted by tasi devil
At risk of sounding like a stuck record.... My Event Horizon will sometimes have internal conniptions, won't make up it's mind...and the pump stays on for long times... (feels like several minutes) with only short gaps between cycles.
There is a possibility that the pressure switch is, or temporarily becomes too sensitive..
The probability is... the EAS computer is inherently unreliable/unstable at times. - Why am I not surprised at this thought ?
Normally I leave it set on "Standard Height" which affords a measure of safety in case the system faults... At least it will freeze at a 'useful' height.
I've also installed 4 taps and 4 filler valves as a last-resort Self-Rescue/Bypass system.
Look on the bright side, our rising stress-levels are assuaged by the constant massaging vibrations....:p
Mine has an intermittant height sensor, which may be a % of the problem.
-The intake filter was rotted out, and has been replaced by my home-brew media. Works ok, but very devious place to hide it...:eek:
James
'95 Classic Vogue SE, with ARNOTTS 'bags, re-built valve block & compressor. Working EAS and Cruise Control. - but don't mention the sun-roof....
James, am thinking you may be on the money regarding the EAS computer, & as it's going in to have the HEVAC diagnosed tomorrow, i'll ask them to check all the EAS values (heights, valves open/closed) at the same time. all height sensors are new, wondering if the system is confused ? as we have the Standard/Off road heights increased due to GenIII's/BilsteinsQuote:
Originally Posted by superquag
re "constant massaging vibrations" ......... it's supposed to be my wifes vehicle :) she doesn't need that much massaging :angel:
.........tasi
Another thing that made a differance on other items in my EH.... plug and un-plug (and re-plugin) the EAS computer and everything associated with it, pump, valve block etc etc. Do it a zillion times... Connectors that don't connect are not unknown quality in Range Rovers of all vintages...:eek: