Thread: New Bullbar for P38

Yeh, we'll see how it goes.

I'll get photos up for sure.

Almost done. Had to modify the same things as yourself. Trim bracket to fit around tow point, and cut a slice off the mounting plate to make it sit back further.

I also had to trim the ends off a rib at the back of the top plate to get the bar to sit low enough to go under the radiator grille. Is that done to yours David?

There is also flat brackets that are meant to go back to a third bolt through the chassis rail. Has anyone used these?

I've taken lots of photos and measurements to get back to him, so hopefully it will be a 'bolt on kit' soon.

On another note; the warn xp motors must be a tad longer than most. Once the holes are filled 5mm itll be a good fit once ive rotated the gearbox.

It's a shame that after all the bars they've now supplied/fitted for p38's that they don't have it perfected. I felt like my car was being used for r&d and I was the 4th or 5th they'd fitted. They assured me they'd have it sorted for the next guy. I'm happy with the end result and s&j try hard, but ultimately aren't professional designers/fitters. I can onlyconclude the MCC guys must be muppets or simply have no interestin P38s.

One further add on I want to make to my bar is to add some bumper overrider type strips at the sides to slightly widen the look of the bar. It's slightly narrower than the bottom of the wings. The rubber strips would make it taper down better. Is it just me? Anal I know.

No, that would be good, and extend them back inline with the wheel arch.



Well it's finally on. Sometimes I tie my one knots regarding getting things right, so its taken a lot longer than it should. Ill put more photos up tomorrow, but it's braced back to a chassis hanger on each side.



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Looks great. Looking forward to seeing some more pictures and reading more about the trials and tribulations of fitting.

Well done that man. Top job.

Following this forums dedict of 'it didn't happen without photos' - here are a few.

The bottom of the lefthand bracket needed trimming to clear the tow point 1384550968878.jpg

With the chassis bracket holes filled to sit as far back as they'd go, I made up in fillers / spacers that'll hold the bolt securely as the top holes are very large.1384551450908.jpg1384551575289.jpg and the same on the outside of the rails.

The bar came with brackets to mount back to a third bolt that on a d1, would go through the hole underneath the front body mount frame. These brackets sit on the inside of the chassis rails, but as the p38 condenser goes between the chassis there's not a lot of room. By cutting the rear of the bracket and drilling the bolt hole further back 1384552143943.jpg there was just enough room for the brackets to slide between the condenser and chassis with the third bolt head between the condenser and the radiator. 1384552437242.jpg



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I had some u sections made up from 8x100mm flat that slid over the top of the chassis, so with the third bolt bracket and snatching or winching force is goint to pull down on these hangers and spread the load a lot better than a sinle bolt.

I also had to cut the end of the rib that goes along the back of the top plate of the bar to get it to sit low enough on the mounts.

So it's still not a bolt up kit as they said, but I suppose it's not all necessary either.
A question though, if a photo was taken and not shared, was the photo really taken...?

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