My bad I read it too quickly... I'm stumped!
I thought I had a good understanding of this EAS stuff, but this one has me stumped
The compressor wont run when needed. It will run on relay bypass or software override. Oh, there are NO errors via Storey's software.
So, it has to be the temp sensor in the compressor or the pressure switch, right?
New pressure switch, no difference. Shorted the temp sensor, no difference.
Changed delay timer to known good one, no difference. Changed ECU to known good one, no difference. Tried 4 different relays, no difference.
The system will lower, rise, etc fine when the air tank is filled via garage compressor, and on a couple of occasions when filling with garage compressor or adjusting heights, the EAS compressor run for a second or so, but thats all.
The valve block has had an 'o' ring kit and the compressor has had a rebuild kit as well.
Any ideas what to do next.
My bad I read it too quickly... I'm stumped!
Pretty sure I have a spare Driver Unit here. Drop around tomorrow night or on the weekend if you want to borrow it.
My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com
Mmm, yep; I've got nothin.
A few years ago I helped out a couple with similar problems. For some reason their ECU wasn't sending the message through to the pump; though it would under diganostic control - though you've changed your ecu.
Maybe dodgy wiring between the pressure switch and the ecu?
can you get live readings from the ecu? is the rpm (engine running) signal missing?
Forgot to say, I've also tried a different driver box.
Rupert, what do you mean live readings?
The 'Storey' software seems to work fine.
Good point Rupert.
From the EAS - System Information Document:
All of the following must be true for the compressor to run:
· The engine speed must be greater than 500 rpm and then cannot drop below
150 rpm.
· The pressure switch must be open.
· The thermal switch must be off (closed, grounded).
· The exhaust valve must be closed, no height changes taking place.
· The compressor relay must be closed and the 30-amp ‘maxifuse’ MF2 must be intact.
My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com
The engine phase tap should be on pin12 on the eas ecu plug (C117), it's a slate colored wire. It doesn't state this on the 96 ETM, but on the 87-93 RAVE it's there, but with a Slate and white wire.
If you have a frequency function on your multimeter you can test it.
I think Rorey's software can give live data of bit counts, but not anything else unfortunately.
I was trying to think of any other function that would be dissabled through the lack of an engine signal...
Further thinking has me considering earth points.
I've replaced the drivers door switch pack because it wouldn't show it was shut, which wouldn't let the the EAS do its stuff. Now that part works fine, but I get the dreaded 'jumping' door locks every now and then.
Is there a common earth somewhere?
I think I've fixed it!
Its the bush in the compressor motor. It becomes loose and needs to be re-staked in its housing.
Have a look here
Range Rover Air Suspension tips from Tucson's Falconworks Land Rover
Range Rover EAS compressor faults
Seems to work well now and the compressor is much quieter as well. This should have been a clue as I had already replaced the rubber mounts in an attempt to quieten the compressor down.
Thanks for everyones help.
Got to love the forum!!!
Regards
Trev
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