I wonder how much rubbing they get on the rear drivers side? No mention of panhard rods.Quote:
Originally Posted by benji
Gary
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I wonder how much rubbing they get on the rear drivers side? No mention of panhard rods.Quote:
Originally Posted by benji
Gary
Cheers for posting that up! It's all relevant to lifting a P38 so it's good info! I like to think of this thread as a collective wisdom paving the way for future DIY lifters. We are not selling our kits, so no harm done whatsoever!
Makes me want to put a flex pic up right now... I rekon I've got more ;-)
Cheers
Keithy
Come to think of it, we really have a mixed bag in terms of lifts here... Heights are different, spacers (albeit similar) are different, height sensor mods are different... It's good to get a few takes on it to see what others are comfortable running, and it gives options to others in terms of how they do theirs!
Cheers
Keithy
Wouldn't they be risking over extending the arrnotts without spacers? They sure are stretching the bags.Quote:
Originally Posted by benji
As a continium to the panhard thread that I'm still pursuing, I took a quick look at the radius arms today - with respect to installing a spacer ala lucky8. To get the front axle 10 to 12mm further forward.
I didn't have the time to get one of the arms off, but its straightforward enough I think once the sway bar is out of the way. Certainly it would if I had a hoist! Has anybody done this mod? With the bull bar, I have room aplenty in front of the wheel, but not at the rear. Hence why I looked.
Anybody know the diameter of the bar that the spacer would slide over?
These look like a possibility for the panhard adjustment mod.
You'd have to drill and ream out all four ends of the cut front and rear rods, to accept a 1" push fit insert using two of these:
http://www.eadoffroad.com/fabricatio...r-tube-adapter
Apparently these are more stable than a jack screw with jam nuts.
And push fit a 7/8-14 male LH threaded weldable bung in the other side. Like these:
http://www.eadoffroad.com/fabricatio...ded-weld-studs
Then weld it all up.
Now. Anybody got a lathe or magnetic drill I could use in the melbourne area.
A bit of grease on the drill bit will catch swarf.
Thats certainly the way to go with the panhard rod; there's not going to be a stronger setup.
Just food for thought, but that guy has done a few other things also. I'm not sure that I like some of his ways, but they obviously work.
I was thinking the same thing myself re stretching the bags to far. I'll be having a very similar setup in terms of heights and mounts, but the TF145s being shorter it should work out well.
http://www.jcbritish4x4.com/p38-eas-modification-intro/
Joining all the collective wisdom; is there anyone running standard bumpstops with the angled seat plate?
Just from my drawings a 1/2 inch angled plate would make the bottom piston and top plate hit when running on the bumpstops.
Im running the standard rear bumps with an angled spacer under the gen3 which extends under the bump stop. .Quote:
Originally Posted by benji
Sam