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Thread: Lifted P38 on air - questions

  1. #441
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    Reckon I'm pretty close to the air spring piston hitting the bottom of the top hat (hope thats the right way round to describe) when deflated. Measured the cars current height last night after a week of sitting. From the bottom of the upper crimp clamp ring to the bottom of the piston foot was 165mm. Very similar front and rear. That should give me 20mm of clearance. About right? The car still rocked with some springyness left.

    The gap between my extended 75mm long bump stop and the axle pad was about 20mm. So with no air, there should just be contact. The solution I'm going to use, is to glue an ice hockey puck to the axle pad. They are 25mm thick. I have some spares if anybody needs some.

    I'll check again with the system fully deflated. But that would mean I've added 15mm + 25mm to the standard 60mm long bump stops. Taking them to 100mm overall.

    For those with circa 2" spacers, does my thinking sound about right. I'm obviously trying to allow for some bump stop compression.

    I guess the increased articulation desire of this lift method has been compromised somewhat. And hence why the original HRA rear lift spacers simply extended outboard of the air air springs to pick up the bump stops. Shame. Is there another way?

  2. #442
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    You are correct Sean.

    Allowing for bump stop compression is also a good idea.

    There is another way, but I'm not rich enough to pull it off...

    1. Extend the pistons (rear only) by 1.5", fit longer air bladders (2" front and 3" rear).

    2. TF144 shocks all-round.

    3. Extend height sensors as desired.

    4. Extend rear bump stops by 1" (solid not soft), leave front bump stops as standard.

    5. Extend rear brake lines and ABS sensors by 3".

    6. Weld a 3/4" angle bracket to rear axle for the springs to sit level-ish at height/articulation.

    Done! Eliminates spacers and gets increased travel (3" at least in the rear).

    Before anyone asks, I've already asked Arnotts if they'd consider a custom piston and bladder for one-off or commercial production. They flat out said no.

    Cheers
    Keithy

  3. #443
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    Jeese Keith, you've really been thinking about this.

    I've decided to add a half height hockey puck to each axle pad. It'll add 12mm to the 75mm extended bump stops. OEMs are circa 60mm.

    I had the car on its bump stops today and I jumped up and down on each corner. There was still movement before you could hear piston/top hat contact. So the extra 12mm or so will be my safety factor should I ever hit the bump stop or end up on them.
    Hoping that will complete my lift.

    Apart from adjustable panhard rods. And possibly the 12mm spacers on the radius arms.

    I've bought the synergy double adjusters and some 7/8"-14 weld studs for the panhards. I'll get them turned down to press fit them inside the panhard tube. Then get them welded. Jobs a good un.

  4. #444
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    May 2010
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    Sean
    I'll be interested to know how those panhard adjusters go
    Gary

  5. #445
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    May 2010
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    Mindarie, Western Australia
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    I've just had a look this morning and noticed that as well as the tyre rubbing on the RHR chassis there is also some rubbing taking place on the LHR shock. The rub is occurring when the shock absorber makes contact with the back of the EAS sensor housing. Is anyone else having the same problem? Or is it the diameter of the Off Road Boss shock that is contributing to the problem?

    The Panhard rod adjustment would rectify this too!

    Gary

  6. #446
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    May 2010
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    I've just ordered one of these
    diy_Panhard_X2d.jpg
    Custom made to fit the 30mm OD and with the stronger 3/4" threads. I'm travelling next week and part of the following week but hopefully if delivery comes through fairly quickly I will have it welded and fitted by mid Feb. No more rubbing on maximum articulation.

    Gary

  7. #447
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    Hey Gary - where from. The guys on ebay stated they'd be a month away from being able to make, and they wanted to see the rods to double check the o.d. If its those guys you're using, you're obviously a sweet talker.

    Good on ya. I'll race ya to the panhard finish line!!

  8. #448
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    May 2010
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    Mindarie, Western Australia
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    Sean

    Yes, it's the ebay guys (Technico Automotive Components). Located not too far from you in Dingley Village. $65 each plus $14 shipping. I'm looking forward to trying them out

    Gary

    Quote Originally Posted by davidsonsm View Post
    Hey Gary - where from. The guys on ebay stated they'd be a month away from being able to make, and they wanted to see the rods to double check the o.d. If its those guys you're using, you're obviously a sweet talker.

    Good on ya. I'll race ya to the panhard finish line!!

  9. #449
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    Sean
    Parts should arrive next week (whilst I'm away) but once I'm back the following week will take them along to get them pressed on and welded.pics to follow as soon as I get them
    Finish line in sight.....
    Gary

    Quote Originally Posted by davidsonsm View Post
    Hey Gary - where from. The guys on ebay stated they'd be a month away from being able to make, and they wanted to see the rods to double check the o.d. If its those guys you're using, you're obviously a sweet talker.

    Good on ya. I'll race ya to the panhard finish line!!

  10. #450
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtb_gary View Post
    Sean
    Parts should arrive next week (whilst I'm away) but once I'm back the following week will take them along to get them pressed on and welded.pics to follow as soon as I get them
    Finish line in sight.....
    Gary
    Good result. You should have a reasonably low cost solution.

    Have you actually measured the offset of the axle at the higher heights? Are you going to centre the axles for highway height or standard height?

    Have you given any thought to moving the front axle forward - via spacers on the radius arm?

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