Fingers crossed I reckon I can finally draw a line under my suspension lift and valve block rebuild issues. The car is staying where I left it overnight. No more sinking.
I had been getting faults in the higher two heights. Tracked that down to a FR height sensor. It was causing the vehicle to list and hence the fault. Put a spare one on and re- calibrated yet again and yippee. Result.
Now for the panhard rods, radius arm spacers and some sway bar disconnects. Got to sort out my headlights (becm) first though.
Feels good riding high, with two more heights up your sleeve!
Good to hear mate! You have the priorities right too. I will eventually find the time to jump on the panhard rod bandwagon as I believe it's necessary. The vehicle rides better and sits flatter through corners in standard height, so I'd like to drive up there more often.
It could be me imagining things too, but I think it's safe to say that if you know you are going to be traveling 80kmh or more, it's best to drop to low height in advance. I 'think' that due to the castor angle it's more noticeable at speeds above 75kmh that the tyres are turning down a touch when you feed some steering into the old girl in standard height. Potentially could be bushes too, will have a look at some stage in the near future, I'd hate to get the wobbles!
Another plug for the terrafirma shocks too - I reckon between them and the boges (even just on a standard Rangie) I'd be getting terrafirma. They are a very controlled shock over corrugations and absorb nicely! Not too firm, not too soft. I'm yet to put 144's in the rear and you can notice the difference in what the front and rear end are doing. That's not to say the boges are crap - they were excellent on the bad roads up the cape, but terrafirma are better.
Keep the updates coming lads! It's good to hear everyone's progress!
Also. Looks like you bolted the spacers to the axle pad front and rear.
For peace of mind, must get around to that. So far, no issues with the tight fitting D bosses coupled with 6mm lynch pins. Might be easy to run a weld bead though - now they're in situ.
yes just new bump stops with original mounting. The rears bump stop extensions are 4mm thick 50mm (high) by 100 wide and cut 100mm long, bolted down. Easy to drill (cobalt drill bits 3 sizes) and bolt with vehicle raised, bottom air springs disconnected and and diff lowered for access.
Front bump stop extensions are 4mm thick 50mm high by 75mm rhs cut at 75mm. Could not access to bolt so temporarily secured.
I was cautious to weld as apparently it is possible to damage the elecs even with the battery disconnected, there is only a chance but did not have the time to resurrect if all went wrong. (may also reduce height of front bump stop extensions).
Fitted 285/75/16s kms very happy with the performance. down to 15 psi pulls like a tractor and gives alot of confidence, so got to a few spots we could not before and hauled in quite a few fish. Best to keep it away from the eyes of the local cops though.
The 285s i found mainly scrub due to height of the tyre not so much width. Doesn't bother me.
Benji the height sensors are extended: front bottom arm +12mm fixed & top arm set + 8mm adjustable to 25mm.
Rear sensors rear bottom arm + 25mm top arm set + 20mm adjustable to 25mm.
Requires some more messing around for correct heights, but I'm not too bothered.
On a test drive I found the eas play up, while on freeway height. So I fitted an eas shut of switch. Now I only turn the eas on when I first start up to fill the air tank and when I want to change heights, then turn off. This for me has taken all the concerns away from, eas failure and I suspect is preserving the air compressor. Might not be for all.
Got pics along the way of the build, the bits for the extensions are from burnings, happy to help if there are any questions. Not any of my original work though just a copy and slight adjustments of others ideas.
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks