the front prop shaft spacers would need to be sized to allow full engagement on the bump stops ie the splined shaft would be fully engaged at this height.
Printable View
the front prop shaft spacers would need to be sized to allow full engagement on the bump stops ie the splined shaft would be fully engaged at this height.
If one of you guys in Melbourne has access to a diff/prop shaft for measuring, I'm sure Andrew at Technico Automotive would be able to assist. He's appears to have access to all the good gear for fabrication ;).Quote:
Originally Posted by Keithy P38
Maybe a group purchase would be if interest, I can't imagine they would be too expensive?
Gary
Sorry, yes in addition.
I was thinking at the diff end as there's less side loading of the joint.
I think before a group buy is placed, we will need to agree on the thickness of the spacer. Some might put spacers on radius arms, others might not.
Is anyone keen to do some R&D or would you like me to do it?
I've been putting off putting spacers (10mm) on the radius arms to avoid problems with the prop shaft spline. Sure double cardon would be great, but for me I could not justify the cost.
But if you're volunteering Keith...;)
Gary
I will begin the R&D process when I get home!
I think I may have done a CV last weekend anyway so I've already got an excuse to get under the old girl!
Cheers
Keithy
So from what I can tell, I may have done the uni's in my front driveshaft. The ones at the transfer case end have cracks on the inside edges. I heard the noise again when driving Rangie the other day which I thought were CV joints, but the vibration when driving straight ahead between 20kmh and 60kmh would suggest that the cracks in the universal could be the reason - plus it had a bit of play.
I think there are a few contributing factors here, and although it seems to be timely with the lift kit being installed, I don't think the lift was the reason.
It was the only one of all grease points that I could not pump grease into (so pure operator error as I've known about the dodgy grease nipple for years and not done anything about it). I will replace them next week.
On the topic of the lift again, I have finally purchased and installed the TF145's for my Rangie! Since being lifted I've had the 144's up front but only had standard "front" shocks in the rear (as I originally planned to use 144's in the rear for dislocation - fail).
It's amazing the difference between the 144 and 145's - the 144's have WAAAAAY more travel and still compress to much the same height (acceptable for use in the rear). It's a shame I couldn't make them work.
I did a side-by-side of the standard fronts and 145's. They are virtually identical in compressed length, the 145's have an extra 10mm-odd in extended length.
Cheers
Keithy
I know which nipple you refer to. Ive broken it before. Not easy to get the gun on to. I ended up installing an extended nipple from memory.
Interesting observstions re the rear shocks.
So a quick comparison here - before and after. Same lump of dirt. You'll notice I managed to drive right up to the top with the front right tyre before the back wanted to start lifting off whereas before I was 2/3 of the way up with the front right and the back was easily in the air.
Before Lift:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
After Lift:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
Before Lift:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
After Lift:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
Also noteworthy is that the amount of crimp-ring exposed on the rear bags is perfectly the same as it was prior to the lift with the exception that the piston is sitting level for/aft so there is no pull on the rear of the bag.
Before Lift:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...-rover-063.jpg
After Lift:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
Plus i'm wasting bandwidth so I can put the links in the new thread!
Cheers
Keithy
A bit more of a bandwidth killer... Some images for the new thread.