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That's where the turnbuckles come in! Will thread both ends of a sliced height sensor arm and turnbuckle it up. Will have wax paper over the lot to protect the threads and turnbuckle.
The spacers are easily a DIY if your good on a welder and can get them cut yourself.
The pins were turned up on a lathe and milled down on a milling machine. Took all of 2hrs to make them all up.
Looking great. Instead of open turnbuckles what about something like this? It's just the centre section you need and could no doubt find cheaper without the bling
drop link kit blue 25mm for 70 centre
Got both left hand and right hand dies for the threads? :)
That's what I have sitting at home waiting to go on my height sensor arms, just mine are a little longer. Bought the turnbuckle part with rh and lh thread and bought a single rod end for the joint. Should work well for rotation and stress release from the sensor.Quote:
Originally Posted by stickso
Yeah that's the way I was headed but its cheaper to go with open turnbuckles so that's how I went! All 4 of mine were cheaper than 1 of those bad boys!
Will tap the lh thread using lh thread die yeah. I figure I can adjust it while feeling it out, then once the heights are good and the sensors don't over extend I'll wrap the lot in wax paper and seal it up.
I can also measure how far apart the original bits of height sensor are too, rather than approximate!
Yeh true. They are damn expensive. My eBay specials were way cheaper than that.
Either way, as long as it works hey! I rekon yours will look prettier :-)
Ha ha. Be covered in mud and dirt in no time under there but at least it'll look pretty for the first couple of hours.Quote:
Originally Posted by Keithy P38
Looking good, just like a bought one Keithy :)
Something worth thinking about for height sensors... if you do perchance get the articulation calculations wrong and the diff/radius arm ends up hanging off the sensor arm, what do you want to break first?
Cheers, Paul.
Hey Paul. Any idea what the resistance value is for a reading of 255 at the eas computer? And also a value of 0?
Was thinking that I might disconnect the height sensors at the elbow (eas turned off so no height changes are made) and lift a wheel. Then see how far the lower arm comes from the upper arm at full droop of 255 equivalent resistance and then install the adjuster to extend the bottom arm by that much.
Otherwise I'll disconnect the height sensors and leave the rear hatch open so the computer stays on. Then lift a wheel and use the eas software to see when the sensors show 255 and measure the distance as above.
The software will still read the values even though I'm sure I'll be seeing eas error codes won't I? About time I send my Nanocom off to get fixed in the mean time as that was handy for live readings.
Thanks Paul!
Yeah I have considered the consequence of over-extending the height sensors. That is one of the main reasons for delaying fitting the lift until post-cape. As the P38 isn't our daily driver I can afford to have it off the road for R&D or accidentals, plus plenty of time to get it right!
Cheers
Keithy