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Thread: Lifted P38 on air - questions

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    Lifted P38 on air - questions

    Here's one for those of you who've lifted your rangies and retained the Gen III springs...

    Myself and Pbrown are in the process of lifting our Rangies (same designs co-drawn but applied differently), I'm at the stage where I'm ready to shop for shock absorbers and want to know how you lads went about it with feedback.

    I'm looking at a set of Terrafirma Pro Sports +2" shocks. I understand that the front ones offer more wheel travel than the rears, so I'm going a set of 4 front +2" all-round as my design has the rears sitting slightly higher than the fronts anyway. Without going into too much detail as yet, I can afford 4" of extra wheel travel in the rear without lifting more than 2" for normal use (spacers are within 10mm of each other's height front to rear). The fronts will also have this option but I probably won't use it. Unless I get disconnects for the sway bar.

    The Terrafirma shocks state a 40mm piston and 20mm double-chromed shaft, will this hold up to our corrugated roads do you think?

    Next on the list is modifications to the height sensors...

    Cheers
    Keithy

  2. #2
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    I should mention, the shocks are a twin tube design. Could this make fitting a task to the rear (seeing as they are designed for the front)??

    Part number is TF144

  3. #3
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    May 2010
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    Keith

    They certainly get some good reviews from those who have them fitted. Especially compared with the Bilsteins, nowhere near as harsh. There is also a TF145 designed for the rear with +2 inch lift. It may be a lot easier than trying to adapt the fronts into rears?
    On mine I have the Off Road Boss 12 way adjustables as per the HRA 2" lift kit, so my ride is as soft or hard as required. I did however need to modify the shocks by putting a split pin through the mounting of the shaft as I managed to lose an entire chrome shaft whilst up in Karijini National Park. It managed to unscrew itself from the shock and axle mount Luckily I had a replacement shock in the garage at home (2000 k's away). Aside from losing the shaft, I have been pleased with their performance both on and off the road.

    Gary

  4. #4
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    My theory is that I have the ability to make the most out of the TF144's in the rear so if its not a pain to do I'm going to swing that way.

    Adjustables would be nice!

  5. #5
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    Hey Keithy I also have had Hard Range kit installed now for a while and am was using Off Road Boss ( until tonight ) just swapped out my rears back to bilstein as one rear was leaking and other one does not seem to work too well either!!
    As far as sensors go I extended the originals by way of cutting in half and fitting to a s/steel turnbuckle type centre so that they are very adjustable in situ so getting the values you require is quite simple. see attached pic.
    I also have GenIII and 33" KM2's for your info.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #6
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    Thanks mate! How much extension did you put on the arms? You'd be able to pick up those turnbuckles from your local hardware store pretty easy hey? I'm guessing you tapped a right hand thread on one half of the sensor and left hand thread on the other?

    It seems easier than my idea.

    Cheers
    Keithy

  7. #7
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    Just buy the arm from local hardware with threaded ends already on.
    Once you have cut your original sensor bottom arm in half tap a r/h thread on top section to match thread in turnbuckle,( usually 6mm ) then to get l/h thread retain l/h threaded s/steel insert suplied with turnbuckle and weld (tig) other end of sensor arm to that - done!

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by FANTOM P38 View Post
    Just buy the arm from local hardware with threaded ends already on.
    Once you have cut your original sensor bottom arm in half tap a r/h thread on top section to match thread in turnbuckle,( usually 6mm ) then to get l/h thread retain l/h threaded s/steel insert suplied with turnbuckle and weld (tig) other end of sensor arm to that - done!
    So no broken sensors or bent sensor arms? I would have thought the extension of the arm and using existing rubber joints would be enough but thought I heard of some people snapping theirs due to extra rotation of the axle? I'm thinking it's only the odd person seeing as the Hardrange kit only changed the length of the bottom arm and that was it.

    Edit: I bought rod ends for mine thinking it would allow more rotation but after seeing how flexible the rubber ends are already I'm now wondering whether there is any more rotation allowed with the rod ends I bought..

  9. #9
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    Have you managed to work out how many millimeters of extension equates to how many mm of lift. Front and back? Assume you have to dial back any EAS electronic setting lift - otherwise you'd be hitting the ceilings prescribed in the EAS software. And are you bending the upper arms? Recall one thread where bent upper arms were necessary to compensate for overly long lower arms.

  10. #10
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    Originally i was going to make both arms longer to increase the range of the sensor rather than mostly just just moving the range.

    But I am now going to use a turnbuckle and rod end to extend the bottom arms. Pick the wheels off the ground and adjust the length of the bottom arm until it reaches close to the maximum extension and then hope that the compressed state is still in range as well. The hardrange kit extended only the lower arm and there are plenty of those kits in the market i believe...

    The arm is nearly straight downwards at full articulation and the sensor arm is attached 4/5 of the way up the swing arm so i imagine 50mm more travel will need 30-40mm... I believe the hardrange ones extended it by 40mm for the rear and 20mm for the front.

    Edit: No plans on bending as I have not read that for other cases.

    And if the settings are left the same for the EAS it won't go out of range, it will just lift the car more and then adjust the values according to ones desire I'll be lowering my values down (below the standard numbers) so it sits at normal height for all but the offroad height because my spacers will be more angles than lift (I'm going for articulation with minimal lift). Keith's values will likely stay similar values because he is lifting by 2 inches all round with extra articulation.

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