Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 16

Thread: looking at a p38 4.6

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Ballarat
    Posts
    108
    Total Downloaded
    0

    looking at a p38 4.6

    Ive had several old series landies, a TDI Disco and an 88 Rangy. Ive got the bug again and currently looking at a 02 P38 4.6 Rangy.
    Not being familiar with these later (Well it is only 11 years old) Rangies, could someone help with the following info please.
    Do these still have a lockable center diff or is everything controlled electronically?
    Is there anything to look out for when I go for an inspection next weekend?
    I believe the air suspension has been replaced with springs, not sure if this is a good thing.
    It is a very low K HSE with a reasonably complete service history.
    Thanks in advance.

    Andy.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Coogee, South of Fremantle, WA
    Posts
    1,550
    Total Downloaded
    0
    There is no centre diff as such, its a viscous coupling permanent 4 wheel drive . These can seize solid with the same results as leaving a central diff locked. Make your own mind up about the air suspension castration, I would go straight past any car that has had it removed however others choose to disagree that the EAS is one of the best points of the P38. Reduce price if EAS is gone. I would budget for a new rad if its not been changed and possibly a water pump. The cooling system must be 100% as overheating can cause terminal engine problems
    Just check everything electrical is working and deduct off the price for any failure

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Townsville, QLD
    Posts
    2,580
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I'm one of the fence-sitters with castration of a P38's bags. I love them to bits (and am currently lifting mine on bags), but I've also been tempted by those coily things. If you are planning on remote touring it has its advantages, but I'll not be the person to remove bags for coils - not in a heartbeat, and not as an excuse for an issue the suspension may have in a remote place. Once you've gone over the whole system you can have peace of mind for a few years.

    As for centre diff lock, as stated above it is viscous. It's not electronic (selecting low range in the transfer case is), but the diff lock is pretty much a soft auto-locker in that it can deliver 50% drive front to rear, mostly under load, but it is not noticeable as with an auto-locker. If it makes you feel better, there are a large amount of people here who use them for hard low range driving and have not been let down. Mine is a pure 4wd, no taxi work, all for touring and tackling the harder tracks I like to explore.

    I think you'll fall in love with first drive! It's meant to be!

    Cheers
    Keithy

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Bendigo
    Posts
    1,643
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Dont be put off by the electrics in them, theres no black magic.

    Enjoy it, they do drive very well. Possibly the best live axle vehicle ever.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Ballarat
    Posts
    108
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Keithy P38 View Post
    I'm one of the fence-sitters with castration of a P38's bags. I love them to bits (and am currently lifting mine on bags), but I've also been tempted by those coily things. If you are planning on remote touring it has its advantages, but I'll not be the person to remove bags for coils - not in a heartbeat, and not as an excuse for an issue the suspension may have in a remote place. Once you've gone over the whole system you can have peace of mind for a few years.

    As for centre diff lock, as stated above it is viscous. It's not electronic (selecting low range in the transfer case is), but the diff lock is pretty much a soft auto-locker in that it can deliver 50% drive front to rear, mostly under load, but it is not noticeable as with an auto-locker. If it makes you feel better, there are a large amount of people here who use them for hard low range driving and have not been let down. Mine is a pure 4wd, no taxi work, all for touring and tackling the harder tracks I like to explore.

    I think you'll fall in love with first drive! It's meant to be!

    Cheers
    Keithy
    I will have a look to see what is missing with the air suspension (although not exactly sure what I am looking for!!!) and check what the current owner has kept in the way of air bags etc.
    I don't mind coils, I still have two sets here from my old 88 Rangy and 98 TDI that I used to change prior to our major trips. But I was looking forward to the ability to set for load by pressing a button!! ( I suppose that is possible with the air set up).
    Andy

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Townsville, QLD
    Posts
    2,580
    Total Downloaded
    0
    You don't even need to press a button, it's all done automatically in a P38 :-)

    Either way I'm sure you will be a happy camper!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Pakenham
    Posts
    587
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Pretty much all covered.

    As Keithy said, use the coil springs as a bargaining tool to reduce the price a little, as the vehicle is no longer original.

    Good Luck.

    Oh, and make sure you have no head gasket leaks, eh!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Tyrendarra Vic (South West Vic )
    Posts
    1,730
    Total Downloaded
    0
    As already stated, Full service history. Check that all electrics work. No heater or radiator leaks. No water marks in spare wheel well.

    Pity about the EAS as this is the best feature of a P38. Self leveling. You only need to decide how high you want to set the suspension.

    Good luck

    Gary

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Ballarat
    Posts
    108
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Thanks for all the tips and info, of to look at it in the mourning, will let you all know how I went.

    Andy.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Coogee, South of Fremantle, WA
    Posts
    1,550
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Something we forgot to tell you to look at was the heater core O ring leak. Get the car running up to temp with the heater working. On the right of the tunnel where your left foot would rest check the carpet for any signs of dampness or leaks. The O ring cost a few $$ but a days labour. On the other side dampness is caused by the air con drains being blocked which is a 5 min DIY.
    Back to the HEVAC control. Make sure all is good. Drop the temp to LOW and check cold air is coming from all the vents by pressing the various buttons. Then turn both temps up full and check again. Any variation show a Potentiometer / blend motor failure which again is a days labour.
    All fixable by a competent DIY`er but worth $1000 of the asking price.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!