HiQuote:
Originally Posted by Scouse
Thanks for clarifying that !
Steve
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HiQuote:
Originally Posted by Scouse
Thanks for clarifying that !
Steve
Interesting information on the Rover V8 Liner issues.
JE Robison Service — the blog: The last word on Land Rover liner failures - I hope!
Its a sad fault (Poor engineering) that ruins the reputation of a very good vehicle.Quote:
Originally Posted by RoverMac
As I have said before, Is Iron tight the answer to this problem?
Chemical welding of such a fine crack should be well feasible.
Hi,
I suspect the BMW Viscous Fan tool will fit our Rangies as well
Viscous Fan Pulley Holder Tool for BMW M50 M52 M54 M56 Lots More | eBay
Steve
Also check the Throttle Body hose. I found my throttle body blocked so just bypassed it and it hasn't caused any issues at all! If anything I found the system bledds a lot better so it was obviously trapping air, so its worth a check.
Hi
We followed the RAVE bleed procedure, except we jacked up the front left of the car as far as my jack would go.
When RAVE says, "let it cool and top it up" you really need to let it cool for several hours, if not overnight.
Worked a treat twice so far :cool:
Steve
I do it on flat ground, high idle (1800rpm), let the thermostat open up then as soon as the coolant starts to show signs of coming up in the expansion tank I turn the engine off. Repeat three times after engine has cooled each time (about 1hr in the shade with the bonnet open).
Would be easier if you had a bleed screw on the expansion tank to let the air out as the thermostat opened up.
I took a much more radical approach following a couple of severe overheat incidents that could have done a lot of engine damage and I replaced the radiator and viscous fan coupling and also removed the thermostat completely.
The top radiator hose was also replaced and a custom hose fitted with no radiator bypass pipe to the thermostat housing, this now includes an extra metal coupling with a temperature sensor, not only is this really useful it made the fabrication of the hose much easier.
What was the thermostat housing is now just a 'T' piece which connects the hose from the bottom of the radiator to the hose on the pump inlet, a small pipe also connects to it for the heater matrix return.
So far it's worked really well, it runs very cool at this time of year and just a little cool during the summer under normal use and about normal temperature when working hard in the heat, we're not planning any trips to cold places so I'm very pleased with it.
Mmmm, Im not so sure not having a thermostat is such a good idea.Quote:
Originally Posted by rc42
For optimum efficiency the engine needs to come up to design operating temperature. One town side is engine wear.
I cant say I have ever had trouble re filling my cooling system, I do squeeze the top hose and watch for flow back to the expansion tank when I do, guessing I have filled mine from empty at least 8 times in 13 years. Everything is OEM on mine.
The only thing I can think of that would cause difficulty filling is a blocked radiator........I have 95 HSE.
The other job of the thermostat is to add some restriction to the water flow. Without this restriction, water flow is greatest at the front of the engine & reduced at the back as it's easier for the water/coolant to simply go through the hoses & radiator than through the rest of the engine block/heads.
The result can be a cool front half of the engine (where your sensors are) & a hot rear half.