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Thread: EAS valve block rebuild - frustration!

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    Carnegie
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    Yeah. Arnott that are 3 years old. Compressor is fairly new. Nothing else has changed. System was working.well before I did this "preventative" rebuild. Can't find any external leaks. Just about to whip out the block again now.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    Carnegie
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    Hopefully got it sussed. That spring I.found under the wrong end of the nrv was missing from the exhaust valve stem/seat. Don't ask me because I haven't got a Scooby. So it was fine pumping up and maintaining height until it needed to exhaust some air. It exhausted a lot of air. Reckon I'm now hit on Paul's heels for being able to whip out and rebuild a valve block. Albeit it takes me five or six attempts to get it right. At least my spare will get all the benefit of the knowledge I've learnt.

    Fingers crossed mind. I've still to test drive - to wombat here I come.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    Coogee, South of Fremantle, WA
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    You cant call yourself a true P38 die hard until you have done a re-seal of the valve block and then truly got to know it finding out where you messed up. Welcome to the club

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    Carnegie
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    Well finally tonight I believe I'm back to normal with my eas. Major relief. It was affecting my sanity.

    I've put a new pump in which is so much quieter. And effective.
    My original valve block has been dissembled God knows how many times in the past few months. I was running on manual inflation for a while. Less frustrating. I tried another valve block (2nd hand) but that was worse.

    Also bought new pressure switch.

    The solution. Sitting at the kitchen bench in a well lit and clean environment. Turned out to be the front left 10mm x 1mm O ring on the valve stem. You know the one. The real pesky one. I've been through a few of those. Reckon I've got the technique nailed now. Hope I've not spoken too soon.

    I've also installed a set of 4 ball valves in a framed cluster on the feed to the Air springs - close to the valve block outlet. To make manual inflation much easier.

    Phew what a relief. I now have two spare valve blocks. Almost resorted to buying a new one. I'll probably build another good spare and flog the other off for spares.

    Character building Hey. They sure get under your skin.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
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    Bendigo
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    Good to hear you got it sorted once and for all.
    When in the classic I had trouble with the nrv - character building it was.

    Sent from my GT-I9305T using AULRO mobile app

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Carnegie
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    Nope. It has dropped to its knees overnight. My high hopes have been dashed. Time for more soapy liquid. It runs at standard height and will stay there, but the new compressor is doing a lot of work to keep it there.

    Hoping it's a leak outside of the valve block that can be quickly remedied.

    Bugger.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    Townsville, QLD
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    Could it simply need a calibration? Perhaps one of your height sensors is just a touch off and it keeps self leveling at night?

  8. #28
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    Feb 2012
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    Carnegie
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    Keith - the pump is running a lot whilst driving. That would eliminate the height sensor from the equation - wouldn't it?

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    Townsville, QLD
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    Not if the vehicle is constantly adjusting itself!

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    Carnegie
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keithy P38 View Post
    Not if the vehicle is constantly adjusting itself!
    I'll try it overnight with the EAS delay timer inactivated. See what happens then. It'll probably be worthwhile swapping the height sensors over, left to right and vice versa and then recalibrating.

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