Thanks wayneg, I did try the aircon, but that made no difference...see my other post for new findings!
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Thanks wayneg, I did try the aircon, but that made no difference...see my other post for new findings!
Does not sound to good, Front or back? If front make sure the viscous coupling has not seized, my experience of this caused the CVjoint to give up ( on a Classic)
Thanks again wayneg, it is in the front, yes, a CV joint would make sense too with the clunking...what is the best way to check the viscous coupling on a P38?
Cheers, Pete.
If its OK check the cv boots to see if one has failed, will cause premature wear
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XddClDAIfXw]Range Rover P38 (P38a) Viscous Coupling (VCU) Test - YouTube[/ame]
Another way is to slowly drive in a circle on a fairly tight lock ...as per a U turn for example, with driver's window down and listen /feel for symptoms of skidding/skipping in the steering. If symptoms are there, VC is either seized or close to it....Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterH
EDIT: Have you checked for sloppiness in the front U-joints?
Will be doing that tomorrow, thanks wayneg!
It all makes sense now, the clunking is much worse while turning, the noise only occured while in motion, was not thinking it being a cv joint...was very hard to tell from the drivers seat.
Yes I only greased the diveline a couple of weeks ago and all the uni joints seemed solid.
One thing occured to me...a couple of months ago I put new tyres on the front.
I couldn't afford to shell out for all 4 on one go, although the rears are almost due for change too.
There is probably a 12mm + difference in the tread depth from the newwies on the front and the oldies on the rear.
I have noticed some vibration since the new tyres have been on, I was suspecting the new tyres were not balanced correctly, but maybe the difference in tread depth was causing the vc to work harder?
Anyway, I'll check the vc tomorrow...will let you know.
Thanks for all the help!
I did the viscous coupling check as in the video, fortunately that seems fine.
I'm suspecting the drivers side cv joint to be the culprit.
Now what is the best way to determine it is indeed the cv joint?
Sorry for all the questions, never tackled this job before.
Is there anything else I should be doing while I'm replacing the cv joint?
Should I be doing both sides or is it ok to just do the faulty side?
Thanks for all your help everyone.
As Hoges viscous technique, Drive the car in a tight circle windows open and listen for clicking from the wheel. Did you look for a split boot?
You can do one side only with no problems, there is an axle seal that should be changed as well.
I did a write up on changing the CV. I got mine from the UK as massively cheaper
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/p38a-range...-cv-joint.html
This video might give you an idea however the CV on that car is truly long gone, The 1st signs arnt as bad and initially you cant always replicate the noise at will. When my one started I was not even aware of a problem until someone outside the car picked it up.
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j0pEp3yVS4o"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j0pEp3yVS4o[/ame]
Heres one from the USA....http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/WD-Expres...item4abf7d6a1a
If the CV is the issue it not going to break the bank and it quite easy if you follow my tips re the big nut. This lot ship to Aus, you will need the boot and seal too.......http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/12073/STC3204-CV-JOINT.html'search=stc3204&page=1
Thanks wayneg, the noise I have is nothing like that one in the video, it is more of a metallic clunk, sometimes with a vibration, which comes and goes.
It does change with speed, seems to happen more at lower speeds.
I checked the boots which are intact and look fine.
I rang my trusted parts supplier today and had a chat about this, he has worked with P38's for years and said they very rarely had to replace cv joints in the many P38's they worked on and they had 3 or 4 in the shop on any given day.
He said if the viscous coupling tested ok, it is more likely to be a uni joint giving out.
It's so hard to tell from inside the vehicle in motion exactly where the noise is coming from.
He suggested replacing the two front uni joints and see if that fixes it.
He may be on the money there...at least I hope he is, uni joints are much cheaper than cv joints!
I did check for slop in the uni joints and they all felt solid, but there could be a needle bearing mashed causing the noise.
I did grease the driveline a couple of weeks ago, I wonder if I upset something by doing that.
So I'll try that first, will pick up some uni's tomorrow and fit them over the weekend..fingers crossed it does the trick.