Here's hoping for you mate!
Does that cable allow you to view the fault code or just reset? It might be worth finding out what troubles your EAS brains so you know where to look!
Cheers
Keithy
Thanks for all the info, thought i posted a reply last week but doesnt look like it went up, i ended up pulling the fuse and bypassing the EAS that way, manually inflated using Shraeder valves and got it on the road again, i have also ordered the diagnostic cable and will do a proper repair on it.
I am already very familiar with airbag setups, having played with a few and also having done a full air spring conversion on my 130, i also have lots of airline fittings which makes this easier. But its the first time i have played with a p38 EAS setup, its been interesting and i can see a few things i might try to tweak and change for a few improvements, but i am stuck till i get that cable.
BTW compressor, bags, lines, valve block etc all seem fine, no leaks, so im guess it will probably work after clearing the fault.... well lets hope anyway.
Here's hoping for you mate!
Does that cable allow you to view the fault code or just reset? It might be worth finding out what troubles your EAS brains so you know where to look!
Cheers
Keithy
Cable turned up today, so i will have a play tonight, it should give me the ability to read errors, reset and recalibrate the EAS.
Clearing the faults seems to have worked, its all working well again, i guess i will have to keep an eye on it and keep a laptop handy if it happens again. My Wifes happy though she has her access mode back!
I have had random eas faults in the past which I put down to electrical interference, Passing the same level crossing would shut it down about 1 in 20 times I passed. Reset and all good. I also get engine disabled if I leave the car locked close to mobile masts and its also happened in an airport.
I never leave home without my netbook, eas cable and EKA code.
Take note.
All fun and games with these things, the EAS has worked flawlessly today, but now my wife is having some cooling issues, getting up to the 100dg mark(after market gauge) when sitting idle, its bloody hot today here so that would no doubt be a factor but i am guessing the viscus fan might need replacing or the radiator might be sludged up.... more fun.
DO NOT LET THE ENGINE OVERHEAT.
The Rads are around $300 on ebay, At least take yours for a flow check, they are quite easy to get out. Also check the small tube from top of rad to expansion tank is not blocked, be careful with the rad outlet, they get very brittle. Whist there get 300mm of hose and extend the expansion tank overflow down away from the fuse box.
I run the overflow hose into a 150 ml transparent plastic drink bottle...just sits there. If the coolant is at the correct operating level and there's no head gasket leaks, then there hould be no overflow. So far, so good!![]()
MY99 RR P38 HSE 4.6 (Thor) gone (to Tasmania)
2020 Subaru Impreza S ('SWMBO's Express' )
2023 Ineos Grenadier Trialmaster (diesel)
If the cars jigging up and down a bit it could be height sensor's I cooked a compressor this way.
Well this car gets more bizzare all the time, The EAS has been fine, except there was a brief issue were the display reported a EAS fault and all the lights came on, after turning the car off and on its been fine again no need for the cable and laptop.
But... we had some weirdness the other day with the gearbox, it flashed up a transmission fault, i was in the 130 and my wife following in the rangie on our way out to the property, its a fairly rough track with a few little climbs, after this error flashed up she had some trouble accellerating and it wouldnt drive up one of the hills, she changed it into the low range, but it wouldnt pick up low so she went back to high and it was all good again, ive since had it in low without issues.... i seem to have every little gremlin possible in this truck.
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