Mate
I assume you seen this page?
Range Rover P38 Maintenance repair improvements and tips learned by experience by ownership.
63 mm is an odd size, do you know if they are 4 or 8 ohm?
Steve
Discovered that the foam surround on all the mid-range speakers has deteriorated. Two options, either replace the surrounds or replace the speakers. I have spent literally hours researching this and several other fora (incl BMW sites which had HK setups in the mid 90s) but no real progress.
I bought foam speaker surrounds for the subwoofers a couple of yrs ago and the repair was very successful. However, a 63mm notional speaker size is not real common (why am I surprised)
Also discovered that the black boxes in the doors AMR6355/6 are actually the power amplifiers. Apparently the 'big' central power amp behind the subwoofer was fitted to vehicles in 2000 beginning with VIN YA430702.
So, back to the question: Can anyone recommend a plug n play 2 1/2" which will fit with minimal adaption?
MY99 RR P38 HSE 4.6 (Thor) gone (to Tasmania)
2020 Subaru Impreza S ('SWMBO's Express' )
2023 Ineos Grenadier Trialmaster (diesel)
Mate
I assume you seen this page?
Range Rover P38 Maintenance repair improvements and tips learned by experience by ownership.
63 mm is an odd size, do you know if they are 4 or 8 ohm?
Steve
Hoges
Something like this would work, you could roll it off with a filter as Edward did with his midrange speakers
Steve
Hi Steve
yep read the Stockholm View posts a while ago. Not real helpful though I admire his technical abilities! The speakers are all 4 ohm impedance. I even had a look at the "instructables website" and as a last resort I'll experiment with a cloth surround using a tight weave polyester material which needs to be very lightly doped to reduce air loss...but the problem with that approach is that it can significantly change the acoustic properties...
While I know the impedance, there's virtually no other specs available re. the speakers... might email H-K to see if they can enlighten me! I'm not interested in having the SSO at full volume so I guess 15-20W RMS would be OK if replacements are reasonably efficient.
Will haunt a few outlets in Bris tomorrow and see what may be available.
MY99 RR P38 HSE 4.6 (Thor) gone (to Tasmania)
2020 Subaru Impreza S ('SWMBO's Express' )
2023 Ineos Grenadier Trialmaster (diesel)
Hi
I left the link out of that last post !
The Madisound Speaker Store
Steve
I had the same problem and fitted 2 Jaycar 6.5" Coax split Kevlar speakers ($90 - pair), sound great! Probably don't even need the Kevlar but you know how it is when you start researching something....
I swapped mine out with some 4" ( I Think) kicker speakers on special in super cheap. As the originals were torn and useless this was a great improvement. Long time ago so cant remember what I did but I used the original grills so all looks stock. I have an aftermarket head unit and a separate amp. Did away with the door units, just used the original wiring.
I'm wondering how to manage the hook up. I have door amps which include a cross over from which there are two cable pairs. The Jaycar speakers have one set of terminals which feed into a cross over which is built into the speaker enclosure... did you simply join both outputs from the door amp in parallel to the terminals on the Jaycar speakers?
MY99 RR P38 HSE 4.6 (Thor) gone (to Tasmania)
2020 Subaru Impreza S ('SWMBO's Express' )
2023 Ineos Grenadier Trialmaster (diesel)
Sorry, these were to replace the 'Sub' speakers, which are classed as 'mid bass' speakers. So only 2 cables for each and let the JayCar cross-over do it's thing. My mistake
There is a huge range of 4.5" speakers with separate tweeters. Best bet is the take the speakers into a store, see what they recommend then shop around for the best equivalent.. As for sound, speakers have come a long way in 20 years so I think any replacement you will notice improvement. In store tests will get you something that suits the sound you like.
Jaycar speakers are reviewed as a quality entry level speaker.
I used Polk Audio 6.5" speakers in all doors and as replacements for the subs. The rear doors they went straight in, I had to make timber spacers for the fronts. They fit straight in place of the subs too.
All up only spent $200 from memory.
Cheers
Keithy
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