Thread: Coils back to Air Springs what needs doing

Hang on... don't cut any plates yet!!!

The air springs sit on a plate. My understanding of the coil spring kits I've seen is that they are a straight swap and no welding of additional plates is necessary.


cheers

Thanks for the pointer, It will be a few weeks before I get the angle grinder out so plenty of time to get things right. From what you are saying the Coils are mounted on the same mounts so once removed the airsprings can go back no problem. Please let that be the case. Makes sense. Need to do a side by side check with both cars.

I have just found there are several types of kit, these instructions seem to confirm that there is no drilling or welding required to fit coils......http://www.roverparts.com/Instructio...LB-Harness.pdf


Any more pointers greatly received.

No angle grinders please!! Straight swap, check condition of sensors and ends of air hoses -cut off 1-2mm if necessary, put a very small chamfer on end of each hose using a pencil sharpener to facilitate its insertion past the 2 small o-rings in the retaining collet in each air spring and the collets in the valve block. You will also have to undo /disconnect any wiiring fixes which may have been made to deactivate the EAS. Good luck with it!

I shall report back in a few weeks.

Wayne, if you can post some photos of the top and bottom of the coils where they sit in the car, we can offer some more-educated responses.
Depending on what the PO did with the ride height, you may want to check the shocks and bump stops too.
Electrically, the EAS Delay timer under the passenger seat has probably been removed so you might need another one.

Cheers, Paul.

Have a search of my threads. I'm half way through doing it.

The bags are in. No cutting or anything like that. The plates on the bottom were just bolted. and there were just rings on the top.

I only have the bags pumped up with a foot pump at the moment. I am not installing the standard LR compressor. I have a compressor under the bonnet which is operated with a pressure switch. The standard LR compressor will be replaced with just a valve that will let air into the system.

Happy Days.

Arnotts are supposed to be better, but because they're a factory-clamped unit, the whole thing gets chucked if/when the bellows leaks.... At least on the Classic we have the choice of 'OEM' bellows-only or Arnotts complete.

You will need to install a self-rescue isolation setup as well, for when the valve-block or compressor spits the dummy.
Not 'if' .....

Bear in mind that re-installing the EAS is yet another proof of RR insanity...

Disclaimer:- Paid a fortune to fix my compressor... bought a set of Arnotts... lashed out on a 'EAS - Kicker' (worthwhile!) re-built the valve body... (No, don't ask how well....) I make no claim to being fiscally responsible or of sound mind. My family totally agree, and remind me often...

Edit:- Apologies, thought you meant a Classic, not P38.
Why not use standard springs and put those Firestone inner-bags inside them for when you want extra height or load-levelling ? - Would make it fail-safe.

Thanks all for the input, I am obviously thinking to much about potential problems after being told the plates would be welded on and having a quick look and seeing the rear lower ( original plates? ) nicely welded.

As for the EAS being problematic and this being a stupid idea I would add that this is my 4th RR with EAS, 3 on air and now this one that needs sorting. No fear here. If the car does not rise I will just use my schraeder valve kit to blow them up until I can find the problem. A P38 on coils not for me and a backward step.
If anyone wants the Coil kit when I am finished make an offer, I wont ever use it.

Paul, if you did not see, last week I picked up this car. Previous owner did the conversion and was adamant that nothing was touched just the springs changed. A quick look and everything including the air lines are still there waiting to be pushed into the new air springs once finished. The dash still shows EAS fault SLOW TO 55KPH, so hopefully a quick reset will sort that. Do you have any Valve Block kits left?