P38 Show stoppers and recalls

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Originally Posted by Hoges

According to RAVE, only the NAS spec vehicles will show a MIL lamp. The CPS performs the same functions for both GEMSand Thor and the default situation is the same.

I replaced the CPS (only because I had a spare!) when I did the heads last year. Interesting though..SWMBO observed what I was doing and asked ...why replace it if it's running OK. I patiently explained it along the lines that the probability of the new one failing was now less than leaving the original in place.
Now I'm a known horder:twisted::wasntme: and she watched as I wiped the original CPS clean, bagged and labelled it. "why are you doing that?" she asked, "...because then I have an emergency spare... which I hope I don't have to use" :angel: She shook her head in a sad sort of way and wandered off...
As my 92 yr old, still driving/gym attending/cryptic X-word enthusiast Dad is fond of repeating: "...Never show women and children half-finished work" :twisted:

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I get the same comments :D;).

Gary

Ha ha!

Nice story - rings many bells!

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Originally Posted by benji

Gems will run with no cps. It'll log a fault code but no mil light. Even with no afm and cps it'll still run - not very hsppily though.

On lpg though, it will run with only the ckp.

I'll need to buy a larger socket, but I reckon with a breaker bar I could get the drive shafts out in the bush. Ergo, a siezed diff could be sorted out. Though with a breaker bar you would be able to take out the diff centre too.

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I always carry a breaker bar. However, for high torque needs in confined space, e.g. trying to undo a diff flange nut in the bush with limited safe jacking options, there may be too much slack in a breaker bar setup and so you get minimal purchase or leverage and so becomes almost impossible to crack the thread.

Answer: an $80 12V 250+Nm rattle gun fitted with a 6pt impact socket :twisted: is ideal for large flange nuts etc in small spaces

Hi

Thanks everyone, I will compile a list in the next couple of days

Steve

Wheel bearing failure may be another one. RRC /D1 setup is very bush friendly. Though I've never actually heard of wheel bearing trouble on these tbh.

A replacement hub (complete) seems to be all that's available. At local prices of $750+ each ....

There's a thread on rangerovers.net where some enterprising folk discovered the Timken part numbers and successfully replaced the bearing set, but required a large press (20+Tonne comes to mind) and an oxy torch... The full bearing set is about $100-150 max per hub...

The bearings are readily available on ebay or any of the UK parts sites. Part number is FTC1507. One of the sites LRDIRECT sells the bearings but goes as far to recommend only buying the complete hub as they are so hard to change.
Cheapest price for bearing I have seen is 39pounds on ebay uk

Here is a writ-up from a guy who did it without a press....http://forum.landrovernet.com/archiv.../t-135269.html

Complete hub assemblies are way cheaper out of the UK! I had to replace my left front a few years ago. Easier to do than the bearings by the sound of it too!

As for recalls, I was browsing RR.net last night and there is mention of a few in the problems and repairs section. Such as trailing arms, water pumps and thermostat recalls.

Cheers
Keithy

Always seems to be the front left wheel bearing that goes first.

All these round abouts in Australia doing it... Same for left front tyres wearing quicker than the others!