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that is most likely the aircon switch thats part of the fan speed controller.
(I need to wedge a 5c piece between the facia of the missus disco to keep that working)
very very roughly...
all of the things that you can control to turn on the AC are positive switching,
all of the things that the vehicle has automated control over to protect the AC are negative switching....
IF
1. the fan speed control works correctly for the AC/heate fan
2. you dont mind your AC only having the equivalent of the MAX cooling setting
3. you can get the AC to engage just by putting a +ve feed to the signal side of the compressor control relay
THEN
you can cut the wire away from the +signal side of the relay and patch in a manually controlled one.
HOWEVER....
this is only a temporary fix until you sort out the probelm with the "controller" side of the AC as you will only really be running on the systems that are designed to prevent the AC system from damaging itself.
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Blknight, Thanks for assisting.
Can I ask am I right in my assumption that the pressure switches are good if I am getting a good earth at the relay terminal.
Would the Evap temp sender failing stop the poss+ feed getting to the relay?
Can it be tested?
Trying to understand Rave gives me the impression this sensor causes the compressor to cut in and out under normal working conditions.
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correct, if earth is present at the -ve side of the signal drive on the relay then the triswitch, temp switches are good.
theres 2 temp switches.
one from memory is in the earth side and is there to prevent the evaporator from icing up.
the other is a temp sensor that chats with the temp control side of the hevac and controls the compressor via the +ve side
but its been a while since I was digging around in there.
