Reply With QuoteOn the older V8s, I always remove the engine mounts. Then the engine drops down 3-4cm & makes access all that better.
A looong 3/8" extension with wobble drive/flex joint is very useful too.
Master
Hi all
Just an update with the trany removal. I'm up to the point of removing the 8 bolts around the bell housing, is there a particular method anyone uses to undo the top bolts with limited access? I seem to have a little trouble getting a ratchet or spanner in there to undo it. Has anyone got any easy suggestions ?
OldBushie
On the older V8s, I always remove the engine mounts. Then the engine drops down 3-4cm & makes access all that better.
A looong 3/8" extension with wobble drive/flex joint is very useful too.
Scott
Master
Well i droped the trany as low as i could go, then using a an extender managed to loosen the bolts. What a mission though, i had rounded one of them so no doubt will have to replace the whole set.
AT REST
Getting the transmission back on (and lined up correctly) will be more fun than removal!
Good luck mate (he he)
Keithy
Master
Any suggestions????Originally Posted by Keithy P38
AT REST
Be gentle!
Master
As already said
- Engine Mounts out
- Drop Rear Cross member (usually require a pry bar and some levering)
- Secure Rear Cross member with the bolts using the lower holes.
- Hex Head Sockets, 150mm 1/2" Extension, 450mm Extension, 300mm Extension (I think). From the Transmission End.
- Support Transmission (I used a drag chain)
- Remove Engine (up and out, easy)
Aligning the Motor and gearbox back up was a (really really diffcult and a pain). You can get it to about 10mm gap, then lever the TC Spigot in from the 35mm hole in the bottom. Then gradually tighten the bolts. With a bit of jiggling from the motor while it is still suspended it should slide into postion. Then you can do up all the Beellhousing bolts.
ENSURE YOU DO UP THE FLEXPLATE TO TC BOLTS TO THE CORRECT SPEC OF 65nm, NOT 40nm as listed in the manual. There was a TSB to cover this. Ask me how i know
I've done this three times in 4 years. It might be worthwhile getting the Ringgear balanced while you can. My engine builder never did this, and it caused no end of dramas.
Master
An update. Well finally after spending a few hours removing the four bolts holding the flexplate onto the torque converter, the transmission is finally removed. As suspected, the flexplate is cactus.
Wizard
Jeese thats incredible. Is that normal wear and tear? Sure doesnt look it.
Master
Oh that's not all. The flywheel crank sensor pins ( where the sensor gets it's reading from is Brocken in a small section next to on of the torque converter bolt holes. I found the Brocken piece under the torque converter. Will post more pics shortly.
Next question is, does anyone know of a good reputable parts supplier for a complete flywheel in the Melbourne area?? I've already tried British car components with no luck.
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