Yes, when you "pull" the diff across it pushes the drop arm across (to the right(or turns the wheels to the left if the steering wheel remains centred)) so the drag link need to be adjusted. The track rod stays fixed to maintain toe.
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Yes, when you "pull" the diff across it pushes the drop arm across (to the right(or turns the wheels to the left if the steering wheel remains centred)) so the drag link need to be adjusted. The track rod stays fixed to maintain toe.
I got my terminology wrong :o. It was the drag link I changed (the one that has the steering damper attached to it).
Gary
Garry I'm a bit relieved I'm not the only one who entertains the neighbours like that in the driveway.
Was your drivers side front on the bumpstop? It looks like it's got more to go!
No, still had a bit more to go at the front :D. The back would have been pretty much on it's limit.
Gary
Track rod adjusts track, well the track on one side of the wheel which altered the toe. The other is the drag link (remembered by "it drags all the other bits around"). It adjusts steering centre.
On a D2 there's a stop on the drop arm which holds the steering box at straight ahead when aligned and you screw a bolt through it. Then adjust track rod for toe, then drag link for "parallels" making the wheels straight in relation to the vehicle.
For those without the welding skills to make your own adjustable panhard rods, Whiteline Suspension may be an option.
Here's a front rod on eBay:
Whiteline W83100 Suspension Part Front Land Rover Range Rover 1994 2002 | eBay
I assume they do a rear too.
This one's $60 cheaper as it's on 'sale':
Whiteline W83100 Suspension Part Front Land Rover Range Rover 1994 2002 | eBay
Amazing find given the eBay listing description.
They also sell camber correction screws:
Whiteline KCA414 Camber Correction Screw Front Land Rover Range Rover 1998 2002 | eBay
I wonder how they work.......