48mm to be precise. ;). Just the way they ended up. Hey pete, so I can buy in advance, what is the size of the shorter bolts needed?
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48mm to be precise. ;). Just the way they ended up. Hey pete, so I can buy in advance, what is the size of the shorter bolts needed?
The standard sway bar links go inside the body brackets (confined space area of bracket which is towards the side of the car) and on the outer edge of the sway bar (towards the side of the car).
But the new links go on the inside of the sway bar and on the outside of the body mount (towards the centre of the car).
So I used the bolt that came with them for the bottom mount and also used the top mount bolt (longer one) but with the spacer installed before it went through the mount so it effectively almost made it the same length as the bottom bolts thread.
Did I just make that complicated???? If so just say and I'm sure I can write it simpler.
But the main point is I felt that using the top bolt with the spacer seemed to give enough thread for the top mount (20mm thread by the time the spring washer is compressed).
So you won't have to trim much off at all then. If it was me I'd just make them 148mm long c/c with the lock nuts gone (seeing they can't change length when installed anyway).
If you leave them too long ("extension over stock links" greater than the "extra height of your bump stops") then the sway bar could touch on that bar (toe in toe out bar I don't know the name of). Mine "just" touched at 145mm long but my bump stops are only 30mm higher than stock when compressed.
Hey pete until we see photo's, none of us believe they're installed! Thanks for the tips and tricks. I get what you're describing, I think.
I can measure the disconnects bolt length on the bottom so you can buy the same length of bolt, so top and bottom match without having to use the spacer. But that wont be until the weekend I'd say. I need to shorten my links 5mm anyway. I do know the bolts are the crazy American UNF I think. Well they are a fine 1/2 inch imperial size of some sort.
Yeh I hear you. I should put up more than just my poser flex shots.
Peter
Just out of curiosity, did you go for a highway drive with the sway bar disconnected? If you did, what was the body roll like? After having driven RRC's without sway bars I was wondering how the p38 performed.
Gary
No. Only the rally course :oQuote:
Originally Posted by mtb_gary
Seriously though, no I didn't drive anywhere with it disconnected. Although when offroad I might be curious to see what its like to drive on the normal fire trials in between the harder off roading.
Fitted mine today. For reference both chassis and sway bar holes need drilling out with a 1/2" drill bit.
I bought two more of the shorter bolts (1/2" x 1.25" UNF) for the chassis holes. Ended up shortening the 5/8" UNF threaded rod by 20mm and the female outer by approx 12 mm.
I'll get chance to try then out next Attachment 78241
Keen to hear your thoughts.
I got away without touching the sway bar holes and just touched the body mounts with the 1/2 inch drill. It must have been a 12mm hope as it barely took anything off.
I never got round to my pics did I? Me bad
