How do I remove the fresh/recirc servo motor

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Originally Posted by Scouse

Just the crash pad assy but you also need to loosen the dash end frames too.


There's a seal which fits between the recirc housing & the pollen filter housing. It needs to be fitted onto the recirc housing prior to fitment & then pulled up through the body. To pull it up, the pollen filter housing needs to come off.


The seal is the rectangular piece at the bottom of this picture:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...9&d=1408367597

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Yes that works, not too hard but very time consuming the first time.
Thanks for the directions they work.
I should have applied power to the motor first to check its operation as it was working.
Removing the dash pad has allowed me to fit a new seal between the air cond unit and the dash pad, which had dissolved. I made one up from foam seal strips.
I have also blocked up the vent tubes leading to the rear console outlet as these have no practical use and are a source of warm air on a hot day.
Replacing the plenum filter with gutter guard as I had some and it wont restrict air flow but will stop leaves etc going down the plenum.

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Originally Posted by ian4002000

I should have applied power to the motor first to check its operation as it was working.

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What did you find to be the problem?

Not sure, The two wire blend motors are powered either way by positive and negative.
I should have done this before removing the dash pad and vent assembly.
The manual also talks about the system do a self test and operating all the flaps after the battery is reconnected, so now I don't know whether the blend motor was working but out of limit or just a bad connection.
I have been giving all the electrical connectors a good spray of CRC Di Electric Grease. This stuff should be in every P38 toolkit and should give good connections for years to come.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ian4002000

Not sure, The two wire blend motors are powered either way by positive and negative.
I should have done this before removing the dash pad and vent assembly.
The manual also talks about the system do a self test and operating all the flaps after the battery is reconnected, so now I don't know whether the blend motor was working but out of limit or just a bad connection.
I have been giving all the electrical connectors a good spray of CRC Di Electric Grease. This stuff should be in every P38 toolkit and should give good connections for years to come.

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Dielectric grease is good stuff, but don't get it on the actually connectors because it is an insulator:angel:

To clean corroded contacts use DeOxit or similar and for dirty contacts you can use an electronic solvent spray

Steve

I thought di electric grease would increase the contact of the terminals and was used to connect heat sinks on transistors to help them last longer by giving a better connection.

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Originally Posted by ian4002000

I thought di electric grease would increase the contact of the terminals and was used to connect heat sinks on transistors to help them last longer by giving a better connection.

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It seems it is an insulator but can be used on high voltage connections

Silicone grease - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Using it on transistor heatsinks increases the thermal transfer rate between the heatsink and the device resulting in cooler running

Steve