New addition to the garage

I have the same issue with my cruise control and there is a thread on here about replacing it with much better ECU from a D2

Steve

I'm pleased to report that with the car off, the fuel flap opens just fine.

I tried it without putting the keys in the ignition this time. I'll have a play later and see what does and doesn't work.

Cruise control is very important for me, but changing the cruise ECU is beyond my capabilities, unless it just plugs in, which I'm assuming it doesn't.

--Striker.

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Originally Posted by Striker

I'm pleased to report that with the car off, the fuel flap opens just fine.

I tried it without putting the keys in the ignition this time. I'll have a play later and see what does and doesn't work.

Cruise control is very important for me, but changing the cruise ECU is beyond my capabilities, unless it just plugs in, which I'm assuming it doesn't.

--Striker.

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The cc ecu is essentially plug n play. It's a matter of removing the negative lead from the starter battery, then undoing a few screws to remove the cover from the instrument binacle and iirc the 4 screws which hold the cover under the steering column in place...the ecu is quite visible. You just remove it as you would a relay and plug the replacement into the socket. Replace the covers and then replace the battery lead. It means you will have to reset the windows and sunroof = open and shut each one and hold button while shut for 2 seconds until system beeps and message centre reads for example "FR (Front Right) window set" etc...then you do the next one...:D

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Originally Posted by Hoges

The cc ecu is essentially plug n play.

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Thanks for that, Hoges. Is it also plug and play if I were to replace it with the module out of a D2, or only for another module from a p38?

--Striker.

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Originally Posted by Striker

Thanks for that, Hoges. Is it also plug and play if I were to replace it with the module out of a D2, or only for another module from a p38?

--Striker.

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my understanding is that the "package" is the same, different internals, straight swap. The D2 and later P38 (MY99->) probably share the same part.
In "real life" it's roughly the size of a matchbox with terminals on the base. You simply ease the original upwards from the socket and push the replacement downwards until it clicks into place. all done!

(FWIW: A Faultmate "black box" can reprogram the ECU firmware according to any one of several profiles, depending on the LR model to which it is fitted. These "profiles" vary, for example, the acceleration rate to resume previous speed when the 'reset' button is pushed... I'm uncertain as to whether the Nanocom can also perform this task)

EDIT: I meant to ask... have you obtained as yet a copy of RAVE? ... if not, it's indispensable and has a step by step description on how to remove/replace the CC ECU

Guys

You need to read this thread; a wiring mod is needed for the later cruise control.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/p38a-range...e-control.html

If I can get the connectors I could knock up a couple of adaptor leads

Steve

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Originally Posted by TheTree

If I can get the connectors I could knock up a couple of adaptor leads

Steve

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SHUT UP AND TAKE MY MONEY! ;)

--Striker.

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Originally Posted by Striker

SHUT UP AND TAKE MY MONEY! ;)

--Striker.

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Mate

Lets wait and see if we need to salvage connectors from the old ECU's

Oh and money is not really an issue, once you get all the tools out to make up a cable, it doesn't take much more time to make a couple of extras if you have all the bits available!

Steve

The fuel flap is not supposed to open when the car is running. It is programmed to open only when the engine is stopped.

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Originally Posted by Striker

For some reason I was under the impression that is was a '94, but at the Expo I was told they didn't start producing them until '95, so it must be a '95, then. I've got no idea if it is GEMS or Bosch. --Striker.

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It could be a '94. I remember buying one as a parts car with Fantom and the old Hard Range crew.

As for your cruise control i didn't read whether or not you had checked the vacuum line connections for cracking/leaks. You can often get away with cutting a couple of centimetres off and it fixes the issue.