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for a disco 2 manual (yes i know its not a p38)
4.6l top hatted short $5.5k plus labour $2k. total $7.5k (from TRS)
ls1 + bits $6.5k plus labour $3.5k. total $10k (from my mechanic)
yes the ls1 costs 33% more but your getting something for that money
4.6 is 168kw and 380Nm
ls1 is 235kw and 465Nm (untuned)
which is 40% more peak power, 22% more peak torque.
if you look at the power band for both engine, the ls1 produces more torque down low too.
fuel economy in the ls1 is also better.
The hardest part in a P38 is the electronics...
Eevo does your mechanic use the GEM ems on the ls1 or has he worked out how to integrate the ls1 ems with the BECM? Was also wondering about the auto trans. adapter plate..
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoges
for the disco 2, we are going to use the original BECM. there are not that many inputs/outputs between the BECM and the ecu/ems.
here is a list.
P38 Range Rover Becm Connector Plug Pin Out Information-P38 Range Rover Electrical Common faults and Fixes
https://sites.google.com/site/ranger...control-module
most dont talk to the engine
i cant speak for auto, as me d2 isnt auto.
however, my mech has put a chevy v8 into a p38 and i think that was an auto.
also here for gems output
[ame]http://p38arover.com/rover/p38a/Engine_Management/GEMS_Systems.pdf[/ame]
from a pdf, google: P-38 BeCM Body Control ECU Guide
ENGINE AND GEARBOX
? Engine temperature: This BECM input is not a high or low signal from a switch but a
varying voltage from a resistive sensor. The BECM puts this incoming voltage through an
internal analogue to digital converter which gives a numerical value between 0 and 255
which equates to how high or low the voltage is the resulting number is displayed here.
? Oil pressure: This shows the current logic status of the low oil pressure warning switch.
? Check engine (MIL): This shows the current logic status of the engine ECU'S check
engine warning lamp output.
? Alternator D+: This shows the current logic status of the alternator's D+ output.
? Autobox Z/Neutral: This shows the current logic status of the Z switch (for automatic
transmission) or for the gear stick in neutral switch (for manual transmission).
? Autobox Y: This shows the current logic status of the Y switch for automatic
transmission vehicles. It is not used with manual transmission vehicles.
? Autobox X/Reverse: This shows the current logic status of the X switch (for automatic
transmission) or for the gear stick in reverse gear switch (for manual transmission).
? Clutch: This shows the current logic status of the clutch switch.
? Gearbox overheat: This shows the current logic status of the gearbox's overheat
warning output.
? GearboxMES1: This shows the current logic status of one of the Auto gearbox's
operating mode outputs.
? GearboxMES2: This shows the current logic status of one of the Auto gearbox's
operating mode outputs.
? Transfer box overheat: This shows the current logic status of the transfer gear box's
overheat warning output.
? Transfer box low range: This shows the current logic status of one of the transfer gear
box's range state outputs.
? Transfer box hi range: This shows the current logic status of one of the transfer gear
box's range state outputs.
Hello people
I put a mechanical diesel engine into my gems p38 and the electronics were surprisingly straight forward, from memory there are electrical connections for alternator light, oil pressure light, crank position sensor (original ring and sensor onto the adapter plate), coolant temp, there are several I think one is for the hevac, and the throttle position sensor for the gearbox, there may be a few more but most of the loom came out and the gems computer seems happy to just guess what's going on, so maybe a different engine with a stand alone ecu?
just my experience, I think I have a sheet with all the wire colours of the ones to cut or keep and what they do if you get far enough to need it.
Good luck, it's a tough choice.
What engine did you go with finallyrangie?
And another into the mix. Perhaps a v6 diesel from Ford Territory might bring the cost of "D3" running gear down a bit. AFAIAA, the Ford app is little changed from the D3, with sump being the main change area. Maybe an area of investigation if you were able to integrate the electronics.....
Pete
Quote:
Originally Posted by Keithy P38
I am running a 2.8 tgv diesel, basically a bigger better 300tdi, the choice was made for me by a red p platter who jumped a light and left me with a good engine in a twisted disco.
being a completely mechanical engine I didn't have to worry about the computers running the engine, it only needs a live to the diesel pump, and the starter motor, add that to the list of connections
Simple and effective! Good work!
Are you running a ZF behind it or are you using 3 pedals?