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Thread: Don't pull off the bump stops!

  1. #1
    p38arover's Avatar
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    Don't pull off the bump stops!

    I tried a recalibration of my EAS this week (twice) using T4 and the genuine LR calibration blocks.

    It hasn't worked that well and I can no longer get access mode. A TSB says to remove the rear bump stops if one can't get access mode (lights continue to flash). So I did.

    Do you think I could get the blasted thing back on?

    In the end, I had to slit the hole to get it to open up enough to go over the retention mushroom.

    I don't know if the calibration failed because I have Arnotts Gen 3 air springs and the suspension didn't sit like it does with standard springs. If I can't get it to calibrate, I'll refit the standard springs to try again.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



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    All I've ever done to replace bump stops is place it roughly in the right position on the axle pad and jacked the wheel up to push the bump stop on. Never failed me!

    2002 P38 Range Rover HSE

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    I remember trying wd40, then cracking it and releasing the air from the back springs to squash them back on.

    Sent from my SM-G900I using AULRO mobile app

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    p38arover's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keithy P38 View Post
    All I've ever done to replace bump stops is place it roughly in the right position on the axle pad and jacked the wheel up to push the bump stop on. Never failed me!
    Lucky beggar! I tried that, I even lubed the mushroom and bump stop.

    I'm not gunna try again!
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



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  5. #5
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    use a spacer block so you dont have to lift is quite so high...

    just a chunk of pine will typically do
    bbbbbbb
    Dave

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    p38arover's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    use a spacer block so you don't have to lift is quite so high...

    just a chunk of pine will typically do
    bbbbbbb
    Yep, I tried that, too.

    Below the images are the measured wheel arch heights, measured from the centre of the wheel, not from the ground. I used the centre of the wheel as it takes out the variation in tyre wear. LR give the dimensions to the ground and one has to allow for wear. Note that my calibration attempts and measurements were done on a level concrete slab, not the driveway as shown in the pics.


    [ame]http://p38arover.com/rover/p38a/pix/LRT_60-003.pdf[/ame]

    High (set by Testbook with long calibration blocks)
    LF 520 RF 520
    LR 520 RR 520

    Standard (these are set by Testbook after setting access with the short blocks)
    LF 470 RF 490
    LR 480 RR 480

    I was unable to measure at Highway height as I can't get the car to drop to there when stopped.

    Ditto with access height.

    OK, I need some help from someone with a Nanocom and an early P38A, preferably GEMS with standard suspension. I think later cars use a different sensor so the bit count could be different.

    My Nanocom readings are shown below. I'd like to know another vehicles settings.

    High (Stored/Live)
    LF 161/165 RF 157/157
    LR 132/165 RR 130/127



    Standard (stored/Live)
    LF 131/134 RF 127/121
    LR 110/113 RR 108/105



    Highway (Low Profile)(stored/Live)
    LF 113/123 RF 109/110
    LR 97/99 RR 94/94



    Access (Stored/Live) - note the front rises which it shouldn't do. The light in the switch doesn't stop flashing.
    LF 78/130 RF 74/116
    LR 72/75 RR 69/67

    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by p38arover; 22nd August 2015 at 08:34 PM.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  7. #7
    p38arover's Avatar
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    Pix added. I've used Photoshop to rotate the images so the wheel centre caps are aligned to a horizontal line.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

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    Quote Originally Posted by p38arover View Post
    I need some help from someone with a Nanocom and an early P38A, preferably GEMS with standard suspension. I think later cars use a different sensor so the bit count could be different.
    Leslie's car, 1996 GEMS with Gen 3's, stored readings:


    Access
    F 77/86
    R 76/74


    Highway
    F 108/118
    R 100/96


    Standard
    F 124/135
    R 113/109


    High
    F 150/162
    R 134/128






    My car, 1998 EDC, standard springs:


    Access:
    F 66
    R 69


    Highway
    F 92
    R 89


    Standard
    F 108
    R 102


    High
    F 140
    R 128




    My car had a variation of 5 points between left & right originally but it also had a slight lean to the low point side. I evened the points to correct the lean.
    Leslie's car has a variation up to 12 points difference but appears OK level wise.
    Scott

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    Please tell me Scott you didnt let him work on the car without you----
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  10. #10
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    Ron, when I put my extended bump stops on I raised the car to "normal" height then put a block of wood between bump stop and bottom plate greased up the locating pin for the bump stop as well as the bump stop itself then aligned the bump stop with the locating pin. Using the bypass valve released some air on the appropriate corner and the bump stops located themselves back into position without a problem.
    Gary

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV8

    Modified 1996 p38a HSE sold

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