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Thread: Ford BF/BA Electric Fan with Aussie Desert Cooler

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    If you get the twin fan unit ... you can wire them series parallel.... so your running them half speed ... they are almost silent running series ... I haven't had mine switch onto high speed yet, not even using the A/C in 35degree weather. then again, I dont' sit in gridlocked traffic either

    seeya,
    Shaen L.
    Yeah the big fan is a little noisy but I can't hear it at all in the cabin

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keithy P38 View Post
    Double Chevron, are you talking about the famed AU twin thermos? They are, by all accounts, the best thermo fans getting around. The AU falcon must have run hot ;-)
    They are good fans but they don't move as much air as the single 17.5" fan, which is why I decided to use the single one

    There are also 2 versions of the twin fans I believe

    Steve

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keithy P38 View Post
    Double Chevron, are you talking about the famed AU twin thermos? They are, by all accounts, the best thermo fans getting around. The AU falcon must have run hot ;-)
    They were,, but if Ford upgraded to the big single then,,
    There are good reasons to run a single,
    less dead area in the centre of the fans, more blade speed at the ends, more rad coverage,
    it must be the only original engine part on mine that hasnt failed,,
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

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  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift View Post


    They were,, but if Ford upgraded to the big single then,,
    There are good reasons to run a single,
    less dead area in the centre of the fans, more blade speed at the ends, more rad coverage,
    it must be the only original engine part on mine that hasnt failed,,
    Yep, cost. I have no doubt both are close to equally efficient. I also have no doubt one single fan would be way cheaper to manufacture. which would no doubt be the reason almost all cars these days have a single fan! ...
    Proper cars--
    '92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
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    '11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual

  5. #15
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    Hi

    A pair of 10" fans have an area of around 157 sq in, a single 18" fan has an area of around 250 sq in.

    I believe that is the main reason you see mostly single fans these days

    Steve

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheTree View Post
    Hi

    A pair of 10" fans have an area of around 157 sq in, a single 18" fan has an area of around 250 sq in.

    I believe that is the main reason you see mostly single fans these days

    Steve
    You have me interested now ... I just googled it ... Here's a picture of the falcon fans here.

    Electric Fan Size

    We are both wrong. It's radiator shape. If you have a "square" radiator, single will cover more of the core. If it's long an narrow ... twin smaller fans will cover more of the core.... Makes a lot of sense to me. You want whatever configuration will cover the majority of the core!

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Proper cars--
    '92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
    '11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual

  7. #17
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    Steve any idea what amperage the ba single fans draw?

    Cheers Paul

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hammer H View Post
    Steve any idea what amperage the ba single fans draw?

    Cheers Paul
    I have one of these puppies (the BF one) and soon enough it’ll be in my P38 running both low and high speeds via temp controller. I plan to spend significant time in hot environments testing it and comparing to the viscous fan (pre and post testing).

    Steve, do you know what effect running 12v to both the low and high speed wires at the same time would do? I have tested them both, and they do indeed operate slow and fast, I just don’t want to destroy the thermistor on the low speed side by running full speed at the same time.

    Just trying to keep it simple, but making it work efficiently at the same time.

    Ill remove the ford plug and use an Anderson plug instead, I can test current draw that way Paul.

    Cheers
    Keithy

  9. #19
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    Hi Mate

    I finished up removing the BA fan as it seemed that under some conditions it just didn't move enough air to keep the engine cool, even with the Aussie Desert Cooler radiator fitted.

    The single BA fan is the same diameter as the rover viscous fan, but is only about 2/3rd as deep, so it does not move the same amount of air sadly.

    I finished up just running it on a single thermo switch, so either on or off. I never managed to work out the current draw either

    90% of the time it was fine, but puling my Camper Trailer up a 5Km steep hill when leaving Gosford and being off road in low range I had to kill the air-con to keep the temperature down.

    That said my air-con evaporator was in pretty poor shape so maybe the air-con load was higher then then it will be with the evaporator replaced

    I'll be interested in your experience with the electric fans mate

    Steve

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheTree View Post
    Just a couple of extra points here

    1) The Ford system is speed controlled and has a 3 pin connector near the edge of the fan which connects to 2 pins on a connector on the fan itself. I ditched the 3 pin connector and connected directly to the 2 pin connector on the fan itself

    2) After using an electronic controller last time around I decided to take the simpler route this time and use a simple Thermo Fan switch in the rad.

    It is a dual circuit one and I am using the on 92 off 87 section for the BA/BF fan and intend to use the second switch on 105 and off 100 for the Air con fans

    All in all a worthwhile effort to save a few ponies and reduce fuel consumption

    Steve
    Hi Steve,
    The a/c fans really should be operated from a pressure switch in the a/c system. Their purpose is to stop the a/c pressure exceeding safe limits, This can happen really quickly if there is insufficient airflow over the condenser. By all means run a separate temp switch to bring them in if the engine temp increases, but don't rely on this alone to keep the pressure in the a/c system within safe limits.
    Also be aware that a temp switch in the top of the radiator tank is only going to measure temperature accurately when in contact with the coolant. If the coolant level drops for some reason the sensor will not operate correctly.
    Good luck
    LuckyLes

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