My 1998 P38 has been behaving erratically for quite some time, a couple of times going into fault mode and dropping to the bump stops. I replaced all air springs about 12 months ago, and it was ok for a while. Then it played up again, so I fitted new "O" rings in the valve block a couple of times, but this never solved the problems. Then a new valve block 6 months ago, and a new compressor about a month ago. I check regularly for leaks and have none. Now it decided that when I start it, it levels off at standard height perfectly, and after 5 seconds or so it decides to raise itself to a couple of centimetres above high level without any prompting from me. There it stays, and no amount of coaxing will persuade it to lower.
I just read Boblofty's post (15 July, 2015) about his dodgy eas system, and his description of his problems sounds similar to my own. His solution was to replace the driver unit. I think it could solve my problems, too.
Has anybody any other suggestions to offer before I follow this path? :confused:
AT REST
Replace the driver unit.
I just put a P38 up here on coils because the owner didn't want to spend any more $$ diagnosing and repairing the EAS. The only part not replaced was the driver unit.
P38's are getting to that age where things like this are starting to go!
Good luck and please let us know if it solves your issue!
Cheers
Keithy
Hi Keithy P38, Thanks for your comments - I find every suggestion is helpful.
I decided to check for leaks once again before diving in boots and all and replacing the eas driver unit. I got out the soapy water spray can and thoroughly checked all air hoses and connections a couple of times. Definitely no air leaks, so I'll proceed to the next step.
I'll check the timer relay first because it is the least complicated job.
Swaggie
Subscriberdo you have access to a nanocom?
makes everything much easier
Current Cars:
2013 E3 Maloo, 350kw
2008 RRS, TDV8
1995 VS Clubsport
Previous Cars:
2008 ML63, V8
2002 VY SS Ute, 300kw
2002 Disco 2, LS1 conversion
Well, I tested the timer delay relay by applying 12 volt across terminals 2and 6, and the contacts closed giving me 12 volts at terminal 8. But I have no way to test the operation of the electronic delay circuit.
Has anyone got any suggestions? Or do I have to have a dealer test the delay circuitry with his tester? Might be cheaper to by a new delay timer relay! I guess the same thing applies to testing the driver unit on the valve block??
Struggling now, John
Hi Eevo, Thanks for your suggestion. .No access to a nanocom.
A friend has a Scantool "Launch". He is checking to see if it's loaded with range rover files. He tried it once before and it wouldn't access the ecu's on my rangie, but he has loaded a heap of new files on it. If the files are there I'll take it up to Morrisset Saturday. If that fails, will a dealer's test machine read the condition of the driver unit?
Thanks again, John
Master
John I lent Boblofty my spare driver unit which sorted his problem...he purchased one and sent it to me as a replacement.....if you like I'd be happy to send you my spare to try.
Jim
2000 4.6 HSE Alveston red
2007 307 xse peugeot
1974 xj6l jaguar
Update. Jim loaned me his spare driver which I fitted yesterday afternoon. I tested it in the garage and it performed like a new one - no more raising itself to excessive heights without any prompting from me. Up and down just as it should. Only one glitch when I turned off the car and then restarted it, the access level light was blinking but it immediately settled at standard height when the up arrow was pressed.
I then tested it on the M3 highway and again it performed to the book, lowering to hwy level after speeding above 80 km for a few minutes, and lowering again to std level upon reducing speed below 80.
This morning I'll test again the glitch of the access leve light blinking when first started. I'll keep you posted after further tests.
John
ChatterBox
In my experience the light will blink until the compressor gets the system up to pressureOriginally Posted by john@
Steve
AT REST
Could have a slight leak on the return mine still does it haven't got round to rebuilding it again yet blinks on next setting down for a few seconds then all good.
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