I picked up the replacement ECU yesterday but unfortunately it was for an earlier model. Before fitting I took off the cover....totally different insside. I'll have to search for the correct part. I will check the motor before fitting
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I picked up the replacement ECU yesterday but unfortunately it was for an earlier model. Before fitting I took off the cover....totally different insside. I'll have to search for the correct part. I will check the motor before fitting
I understand that the older ones will work just the same, as long as it's for an auto, but I think the older ones are less reliable than the newer options.
It's a pity you're not closer, I have several you would be welcome to try
Correct part on its way from UK ?15 for the part and ?18 for air freight delivery. (Around $56 all up). I also replaced the selector motor today. It had seized completely, I suspect it is what caused the melt down in the first place. The car is still drivable just not in low range at present.
When these cars were relatively new, the info from LR was that these usually fail together.
Either the ECU fails burns out the shift motor by over cycling it or the motor seizes & fries the ECU while it tries to operate it.
Okay, so I bit the bullet and replaced both the ecu and the shift motor in one go, still no difference.
The thing that is confusing me now is the output from the ecu, the 12v output to change the ratio should be either 12v to move the motor or 0 if it needs to stay still, but both directions (4 wires ) are all showing 8v all the time, could that be an issue with the becm or could I still be looking for a bad earth, there seems to be 12v to both of the input lines, I will be running another supply from the post on the body computer at the weekend to double check but any other suggestions greatly appreciated, I'm running out of ideas
So I have run power directly to the transfer ecu from the becm, on the positive side it's ruled that out as the problem, on the down side of course, still no closer to a solution.
The search continues
Just a thought. What position is the selector in physically inside the TC? Is it the same corresponding position on the selector motor? From what I've read the switches that determine the position are in the reduction box on the TC sepector motor.Quote:
Originally Posted by finallyrangie
Have you tried the TC selector motor operation before installing. Just simply plugging in the cables?
Do you get any messages on the dashboard?
Just a thought. What position is the selector in physically inside the TC? Is it the same corresponding position on the selector motor? From what I've read the switches that determine the position are in the reduction box on the TC selector motor.Quote:
Originally Posted by finallyrangie
Have you tried the TC selector motor operation before installing. Just simply plugging in the cables?
Do you get any messages on the dashboard?
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtb_gary
I did get a message on the dashboard when I wound the motor back into high but I took the motor off and used a battery to turn it, checking the switches as I went until I got it to report high range position, (from memory 1,2 and 4 open and 3 closed ,then put it back together and no error messages.
Motor turns in both directions and all the switches seem to work as they should, that's what is so frustrating, motor works and the computer appears fine apart from putting out 8v to the motor instead of 12v or nothing, and changing the ecu gives exactly the same result.
I am genuinely at a loss
Apart from this my p38 is actually running pretty good at the moment
As you suggested. If you are only getting 8v there is a loss somewhere in the system. Al i can think as the next step would be to check the resistance of each of the supply wires and connectors until you find the culprit