Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 16 of 16

Thread: Air conditioning not cold

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Douglas Park, NSW
    Posts
    9,217
    Quote Originally Posted by TheTree View Post
    Hi Mate

    Yes all those things are working it correctly, I do have the chequebook symbol but that is the left hand reticulation motor (the fresh recycled air one)

    Regards
    Steve
    When you get around to replacing it, fit an O/S recirc assy which will place the motor on the inside. This means it's easy to access by removing the glovebox instead of half the dash.
    I swapped both of mine around while I had the dash & frame out but found the O/S is still a PITA due to the frame now blocking it.
    Scott

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Gosford, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    2,398
    I finally got around to contacting my mobile air con guy and he is going to drop but tomorrow and have a look.

    He suspects a slow gas leak from either the compressor seal, TX Valve or evaporator. So he is going to top it up and we will see if we can nail down the leak

    Steve
    MY96 4.6 HSE P38. Niagara Grey; "The Phoenix"
    MY99 4.6 HSE P38. LPG, Blenheim Sliver; "Voldemort" burnt to a cinder
    MY79 RR Classic, Gone, MY57 Series 1 SWB, Long gone
    P38 write ups and info on my website http://p38.hts.com.au/

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Gosford, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    2,398
    Hi

    Well she is still full of gas and the way it is behaving it seems it's the TX valve playing up. Luckily it can be replaced from under the bonnet, so no dash out

    I asked him about Hychill and he said it's a better gas but because it has smaller molecules it's harder to keep in the system. He said he started using it on P38's and found he had to come back and refill them with r134a after a few months.

    Given that I have new hoses I think i will give the hychill a whirl when I replace the TX valve.

    I am wondering if I should also replace the Tri-state and low pressure switches while it has no gas in it. Not sure about the long term reliability of those switches

    Steve
    MY96 4.6 HSE P38. Niagara Grey; "The Phoenix"
    MY99 4.6 HSE P38. LPG, Blenheim Sliver; "Voldemort" burnt to a cinder
    MY79 RR Classic, Gone, MY57 Series 1 SWB, Long gone
    P38 write ups and info on my website http://p38.hts.com.au/

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aus
    Posts
    2,123
    Quote Originally Posted by TheTree View Post
    Hi

    Well she is still full of gas and the way it is behaving it seems it's the TX valve playing up. Luckily it can be replaced from under the bonnet, so no dash out

    I asked him about Hychill and he said it's a better gas but because it has smaller molecules it's harder to keep in the system. He said he started using it on P38's and found he had to come back and refill them with r134a after a few months.

    Given that I have new hoses I think i will give the hychill a whirl when I replace the TX valve.

    I am wondering if I should also replace the Tri-state and low pressure switches while it has no gas in it. Not sure about the long term reliability of those switches

    Steve
    I've always heard it's the other way around. Hychill leaks a lot less ... due to the lower pressures it runs and bigger molecule size. Someone else will look it up for me

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Proper cars--
    '92 Range Rover 3.9V8 ... slugomatic
    '92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Gosford, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    2,398
    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    I've always heard it's the other way around. Hychill leaks a lot less ... due to the lower pressures it runs and bigger molecule size. Someone else will look it up for me

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    From what I can see hychill has bigger molecules so as you say it should leak less.

    Perhaps the old hoses just aren't up to the job anyway, mine were leaking very badly before I replaced them

    Steve
    MY96 4.6 HSE P38. Niagara Grey; "The Phoenix"
    MY99 4.6 HSE P38. LPG, Blenheim Sliver; "Voldemort" burnt to a cinder
    MY79 RR Classic, Gone, MY57 Series 1 SWB, Long gone
    P38 write ups and info on my website http://p38.hts.com.au/

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    19
    Hello all - I too have a similar problem but pretty sure I have no faults showing. Can anyone recommend a good outfit in Melbourne who knows these cars?

    Thanks

    andrew

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!