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Thread: HD axles

  1. #1
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    HD axles

    I recently purchased and installed HD axles for my P38, Ultimate CV Axle Set for Range Rover P38 ('94-'02)

    I got them through lucky8 since they were way cheaper that way. I also got a set for the rear, though I am not sure what has changed over the originals because they look the same. Other alloy I guess. The came complete with reluctor rings.

    The fronts are a different story. Personally, for such an expensive item I do have a few comments. They look the business but come without the ABS reluctor rings installed. They can be removed from the old axles but these are made from a cast material and are not machined, hence they are brittle and tend to break easily.Fortunately the rears are exactly the same so when you are replacing all your axles, like I was, you have a few spares. DO NOT try and pry them of in one go, turn the CV around and tap gently on the reluctor ring to get it off. The same goes for mounting; I suggest to sand them down lightly on the inside to remove corrosion and tap them on gently, turning the CV as you go along.

    Also, no oil seals were provided. I did replace mine but after installing the axles oil came pouring out like water when going through a bend. I removed the axles and upon inspection it turns out that the ID of the oil seal is 35mm, as is the OD oil seal ring on the original axles, but the RCV ones are only 32mm. I have yet to find a supplier/manufacturer of a 65mm OD 32mm ID oil seal. Eric from lucky8 has been contacted and I'll follow up on this thread once I have more news on this. In the meantime I reinstalled my original axles, moving the reluctor rings over again

  2. #2
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    Today I had another go at fixing my axles and I was beginning to think that the "bed" the oil seal runs on might be a separate part, like the abs reluctor rings. I took the shortest shaft out and remove as much dirt and grime from the outside as I could. No real suggestion there that it could come off but on the inside there was a hint that it might be. After creating a make shift holder for the axle to rest on I took out the WD40 and a hammer and carefully whacked the end of the half shaft, resting the ring of the oil seal on the helper tool I just made. Lo and behold, it moved!

    So there you have it. The oil seal bed. thingy, ring, whatever it is called in english is a separate part that can be refitted to the RCV axles after all. I just did one today and will be doing the other tomorrow. The CV boot is mounted to far down on the longer shaft so I need to move that up first before I can get the ring back on there. It is a bit difficult to figure out how far you need to whack it back on since too far and it will not seal, not far enough and you'll grind the seal to bits but it is doable.

    TL;DR, there are two parts that need to be transferred from the old axle to the new for them to work, caveat emptor.

    Cheers,
    -P

  3. #3
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    Hi Prelude,
    Sounds like a bit of fiddly around but hope it is all worth it. Did you ever get reply from Lucky 8 re proper How to do swap out? did they provide a suggested part no list for items not supplied with axles ?

    Can you give us approx cost of HD Axles. It's something I have on wish list as I have 33" muddies so its only matter of time before it becomes a must do.

    regards, Martin

  4. #4
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    Martin,

    Lucky8 did get back to me indeed. Although the response was "our tech said you need to fit the originals. Does that makes sense? I personally am not sure". This was in regard to the oil seals, since I at first thought that was the problem. After I mentioned that it was not going to fit they came back that their tech uses RTV, which I figured out was some sort of liquid sealant or smth. Not something I would use on rotating parts and I did notify them of this. In the end I figured it out myself and I send them pictures and an explanation so they could use it for future reference and customers. All in all, they are willing and helpfull, just not clear or knowledgeable in this particular example. I won't hold it against them

    The rear axles I have my doubts about though. They look like stock new ones but they should be HD versions as well. The fronts really look the part. I paid, for the 4, USD2000 (that was including insured shipping to mainland europe which was $300). Customs here locally added another 500 euro's

    I added a picture of a front (original) axle for you so you can see what needs to be moved over to the new axles. A pictures is worth more then a 1000 words in this case

    -P
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #5
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    I'm going through the same thing now. The metal ring/seal you have in the picture has been transferred to the new RCV axles but its still throwing out a bunch of oil. I had a local LR shop do the installation of these as they were installing new upper and lower ball joints so I haven't seen it with my own eyes. I'm going to pull them back out and take another look. If there were any additional photos that you sent Lucky8 I would love to see them. Either PM or reply to this message. My guess right now is that it isn't installed on the right place on the new RCV axles and therefore the oil is just slipping by.

    Quote Originally Posted by prelude View Post
    Martin,

    Lucky8 did get back to me indeed. Although the response was "our tech said you need to fit the originals. Does that makes sense? I personally am not sure". This was in regard to the oil seals, since I at first thought that was the problem. After I mentioned that it was not going to fit they came back that their tech uses RTV, which I figured out was some sort of liquid sealant or smth. Not something I would use on rotating parts and I did notify them of this. In the end I figured it out myself and I send them pictures and an explanation so they could use it for future reference and customers. All in all, they are willing and helpfull, just not clear or knowledgeable in this particular example. I won't hold it against them

    The rear axles I have my doubts about though. They look like stock new ones but they should be HD versions as well. The fronts really look the part. I paid, for the 4, USD2000 (that was including insured shipping to mainland europe which was $300). Customs here locally added another 500 euro's

    I added a picture of a front (original) axle for you so you can see what needs to be moved over to the new axles. A pictures is worth more then a 1000 words in this case

    -P

  6. #6
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    I still had a bit of leakage after the first fit as well and I may very well need to inspect them once again since it has been a while but incorrect fitting of the flanges can be a large part of the problem. I would measure the old units exactly before doing it again, I never did that so it was hit and miss for me. The LH side is near perfect but the RH side is probably of by a few mil. Since the flange itself is in the way to properly see what you're doing it does help measuring before you take the job on.

    I do have some more pics but none that will be very helpful I think. If you PM me your mail address I'll send them your way since I'd like to keep the amount of pictures in my account on the side within limits, also I can send you the full resolution pics as well.

    Cheers!

    -P

  7. #7
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    I have leaking front axle seals and recently researched the job on the forums I am on...there were many complaints about faulty replacement seals, including those sold as OEM. The only reliable brand was NSK.

  8. #8
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    I offered a helpful hint re front axle oil seals last Dec. , but I got the brand wrong... it should have been NAK, not NSK.😶

  9. #9
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    An update on the RCV axles.

    The front, of course, contains CV/s and CV boots. The latter are made by rockford in the US and are basically nissan 300ZX boots. The axle side is the proper diameter, the CV side is about 1mil to big. Since the boots are really thick and tough they do not bend as much and since they were meant for the rear axle of a nissan they were never meant to flex as much. They come pre installed from the factory tightly without problem but I already broke one and had to order a replacement (USD10) and some spares. Without the exact strap (and tool) to hold them into place I have found it very hard to keep that bloody thing seated.

    The usual clamp types that you would squeeze tight are not up to the job, a hose clamp won't clear the lower joint, a ty-rap... never mind :P and the standard metal band that you tighten with a special tool are mostly only 5mm wide and also do not cut it. I have found an old style metal strap that has held up since, let's hope it stays that way.

    The strap mentioned is of a type called ligarex. It seems old citroens used them. They do not a special tool but I was able to borrow one from the local citroen nut

    SO, keep that in mind and I'll let you guys know if this strap holds up.

    Cheers,
    -P

  10. #10
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    I have been using HD Axles from Lucky8 for more than 2 years now.
    I had the same boot problem you have faced but since than everything is great.
    My mechanic has solved this problem so I don't know the details.

    Running 37x12,5x16 Trepadors with them.

    Hopefully yours are sorted as well.

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