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Thread: auto box warmup time

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    auto box warmup time

    It recently was some 30+c down here and I noticed that it took fairly long for the gearbox to lock up in 4th gear. To give you a bit of context:

    Bloody hot car, hot outside, get in start car and drive of straight away. The climate control had to work hard of course to cool me down, but with that, it surely has heated the radiators behind the condensor extra fast since a condensor can get pretty hot (60c I recon) in no time when cooling the interior. Add to that the outside temp of over 30c and I should think that everything under that hood would surely be hot in the blink of an eye.

    I live in what we call an outdoor area so when I leave my house I hardly ever dip below 60km/h. It's all long straights, no traffic lights nothing but then still it takes the gearbox up to 8km to lock up which I think is fairly long, especially since it seems fuel consumption is way worse in that period

    Is this out of the ordinary?

    -P

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by prelude View Post
    It recently was some 30+c down here and I noticed that it took fairly long for the gearbox to lock up in 4th gear. To give you a bit of context:

    Bloody hot car, hot outside, get in start car and drive of straight away. The climate control had to work hard of course to cool me down, but with that, it surely has heated the radiators behind the condensor extra fast since a condensor can get pretty hot (60c I recon) in no time when cooling the interior. Add to that the outside temp of over 30c and I should think that everything under that hood would surely be hot in the blink of an eye.

    I live in what we call an outdoor area so when I leave my house I hardly ever dip below 60km/h. It's all long straights, no traffic lights nothing but then still it takes the gearbox up to 8km to lock up which I think is fairly long, especially since it seems fuel consumption is way worse in that period

    Is this out of the ordinary?

    -P
    Can't answer the lock up question, but I can say that 30 C is not hot. That's a mild Spring day here.



    Real stupidity beats artificial intelligence every time. Sir Terry Pratchett

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by johntins View Post
    Can't answer the lock up question, but I can say that 30 C is not hot. That's a mild Spring day here.
    I agree wholeheartedly here! It's winter and still getting to 30 degrees

    I do work on an old bloke's P38 here. It's a gems, on coils now sadly, but he also complained that the converter wasn't locking up in top for ages. The transmission fluid level wasn't low, but it also wasn't "full", so I topped it up and took him for a drive. Problem sorted.

    Hope this helps!

    Cheers
    Keithy

    Green 2000 P38 Range Rover HSE - Gone
    Blue 1999 P38 Range Rover HSE - Gone

    Silver 2002 P38 Range Rover HSE - Sequential LPG, BCDC Charger, TPMS, Rear Locker, Wheel Carrier, Bullbar & Spotlights, General Grabber AT2's, Too Much to Mention!

  4. #4
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    I replaced all the oil back back when I went up north. It is nearly perfectly on the mark, however, I do beleive those ZF units are very picky about the fluid level indeed. iirc the fluid level needs to be measured on idle, in neutral and at a temperature of 20c Tall order to stay within that bandwith when first filling up the system... I'll check the fluid level again and see what's up.

    And ok I get it, 30c is for pussies hahaha. Personally, I feel like rolling over and dying in those temperatures but then we hardly get "normal" heat here. If it get's hot in this otherwise wet country, we get pretty high humidity at the same time so it just feels... eh.

    Thanks,
    -P

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by prelude View Post
    And ok I get it, 30c is for pussies hahaha. Personally, I feel like rolling over and dying in those temperatures but then we hardly get "normal" heat here. If it get's hot in this otherwise wet country, we get pretty high humidity at the same time so it just feels... eh.

    Thanks,
    -P
    Mate

    The people who live "Up North" in the tropics think that it's freezing down here in a temperate climate, they would have trouble even going outside where you live

    Steve
    MY96 4.6 HSE P38. Niagara Grey; "The Phoenix"
    MY99 4.6 HSE P38. LPG, Blenheim Sliver; "Voldemort" burnt to a cinder
    MY79 RR Classic, Gone, MY57 Series 1 SWB, Long gone
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  6. #6
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    MY96 4.6 HSE P38. Niagara Grey; "The Phoenix"
    MY99 4.6 HSE P38. LPG, Blenheim Sliver; "Voldemort" burnt to a cinder
    MY79 RR Classic, Gone, MY57 Series 1 SWB, Long gone
    P38 write ups and info on my website http://p38.hts.com.au/

  7. #7
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    Hummm,, 30 degs, nice 👍

    As far as "lock up" etc goes, your box should work straight off the mark at any temp. Cold oil verses hot oil won't really make much of a difference to how the box works, other than "perhaps" being a whisker smoother. It's run on pressures not heat.
    I would suggest at this point depending on how long it's been since you've done an oil change, perhaps swapping out the filter and fresh oil. Sounds more like you might have some crud in there slowing up things,, as in jamming valves etc. In a case like this, if your oils dirty, the warmer it gets, it'll work a bit better maybe, or as it gets hotter, it can flow better through various valves and orifice's.
    Marcus & Leeanne
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  8. #8
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    The TD5 and probably V8 in a D2 will not lock up until the engine temperature has risen. By observation I think this is at about 70C engine temperature . This equates about to when the temp gauge moves to the centre on a D2 TD5.

    AFAIK the 4HP22EH fitted to a 38A will be the same as in a D2.

    If you have a low temperature or faulty thermostat in the 38A this could affect the lock up.
    I am extrapolating here on the assumption that they work similarly. I am sure someone will come and flame me if I am wrong.
    Regards Philip A

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    The TD5 and probably V8 in a D2 will not lock up until the engine temperature has risen. By observation I think this is at about 70C engine temperature . This equates about to when the temp gauge moves to the centre on a D2 TD5.

    AFAIK the 4HP22EH fitted to a 38A will be the same as in a D2.

    If you have a low temperature or faulty thermostat in the 38A this could affect the lock up.
    I am extrapolating here on the assumption that they work similarly. I am sure someone will come and flame me if I am wrong.
    Regards Philip A
    I'm not here to flame!! Promise!!

    Only speaking from experience!

    All P38's that I've driven, both GEMS and Thor, have the converter lock up (under the right throttle position and transmission pressure obviously) at around 60kmh. All 3 of my ones did, plus all of the ones I've worked on.

    Cheers
    Keithy

    Green 2000 P38 Range Rover HSE - Gone
    Blue 1999 P38 Range Rover HSE - Gone

    Silver 2002 P38 Range Rover HSE - Sequential LPG, BCDC Charger, TPMS, Rear Locker, Wheel Carrier, Bullbar & Spotlights, General Grabber AT2's, Too Much to Mention!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keithy P38 View Post
    I'm not here to flame!! Promise!!

    Only speaking from experience!

    All P38's that I've driven, both GEMS and Thor, have the converter lock up (under the right throttle position and transmission pressure obviously) at around 60kmh. All 3 of my ones did, plus all of the ones I've worked on.

    Cheers
    Keithy
    Yes, but that is the v8. The TD5 will never lock up in 4th below about 80 kmph on standard tyres etc, and as below, that is not until engine? temp gets to the right point and gives the electronics the all clear.
    Funny how the two are so different in this respect, but I understand it is to do with still getting good torque from the smaller TD5 at lower speeds.
    Dan - MY04 D2a TD5 auto Classic (2nd engine @ 153K) set up for touring
    Bessie - MY95 RRC LSE Vogue SoftDash with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplant

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