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Thread: 4.6 head gasket

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    NW Tassie
    Posts
    1,576

    4.6 head gasket

    Well what I original thought was only a blown exhaust gasket turned out to be a blown head gasket on number 6.
    What a pain in the arse those heat shields on the exhaust are, they may well get binned, thoughts?, have broken bolts and very bent heat shields.
    Lost a clip off the injector electrical connecting that went in the big black hole somewhere.
    Any way, looks like a bit of a polish on the heads and a couple of new gaskets all will be well again
    cheers
    blaze

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Mullaloo, Western Australia
    Posts
    1,086
    I've been running mine for around 2 years without the heat shield on the LHS. A bit like yourself it was a PITA trying to refit so I left it off. One day I must get around to refitting. But first I need to remove what's left of a broken bolt still attached to the exhaust manifold.....the front one that attaches to the spacer
    Gary

    1996 p38a HSE
    2" lift, Gen3 bags, adjustable Terra Firma +2" shocks, adjustable panhard rod, adjustable sway bar disconnects, EAS bypass, Ashcroft ATB F&R, 255/55/18 Toyo Proxes ST for road & 265/75/16 Maxxis Big Horns for off road :)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    NW Tassie
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    I git the long one at the back broken on both sides, had to mutilate the ones at the front and back as captive nuts let go etc. etc.
    cheers
    blaze

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Netherlands
    Posts
    135
    Mine did not come of in one piece either. I cleaned the manifold and did not replace them since it is almost impossible to do. I do worry about heat in the engine bay though so I have been thinking about that heat wrap stuff to wrap around the manifold.

    My biggest worry with that though is that it is a cloth like structure and when wading or mudding it'll get completely soaked and I am not sure how well the stuff can handle it, or what it'll do in the engine bay after a while, perhaps even flammable organic residu in the water will get lodged into the fabric and might at the very least smoke a lot There is also evidence that in most cases the metal will get too hot this way and trapped moist will get superheated, eroding the steel very fast. An alternative is to get them ceramic coated. Could be expensive but would last a lifetime and considerably reduces the heat.

    In any case, I do not feel like replacing those pesky pieces of metal since there is almost no way to do that without running the risk of them (bolts) seazing up again.

    If you do not wade or mud very deep, I would certainly consider that wrap around stuff since it is easy, works better than those shields and uses less space, ie. a better accessible engine but do a bit a of research on the subject regarding early wear.

    Also, I almost forgot, my gems manifolds have a flexible piece on them and I doubt that you can coat that with ceramics.

    Cheers,

    -P

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Gosford, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    2,408
    Hi,

    There was a report that someone melted their brake fluid reservoir because they removed those shields, so i would be wary.

    I use anti-seize on the bolts when I replace them.

    Also I use a very long extension, after removing the guard liner, to get to the rearmost bolts. I also undo the engine mount and jack the engine up slightly on the drivers side, it makes it much easier to get the shields off !

    Steve
    MY96 4.6 HSE P38. Niagara Grey; "The Phoenix"
    MY99 4.6 HSE P38. LPG, Blenheim Sliver; "Voldemort" burnt to a cinder
    MY79 RR Classic, Gone, MY57 Series 1 SWB, Long gone
    P38 write ups and info on my website http://p38.hts.com.au/

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Warwick Qld
    Posts
    714
    I had to "mechanically adjust" mine, too. Ended up removing them completely, and went with a wrap, instead. I'll let you know if the car catches fire 4.6 head gasket
    -----
    Light travels faster than sound:
    This is why some people appear bright - until you hear them speak
    -----
    1996 Disco 300 TDi ("Slo-Mo")
    1995 P38A 4.6 HSE ("The Limo")
    1966 No 5 Trailer (ARN 173 075)
    -----

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    NW Tassie
    Posts
    1,576
    I think I am going to go with a wrap.
    Heads are now in the hands of the recondition, quoted $440 for the pleasure of his work.
    Also got pushrod on the loose, was pushing the buggers through a bit of cardboard, put in 3 and then when number 4 went in, number 1 fell through, down beside the radiator somewhere, shouldn't to to hard to find should it. You gotta be kiddin, its disappeared
    oh the joy
    cheers
    blaze

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra Australia
    Posts
    13,645
    So you going to go to ARB studs or get new stretch bolts?

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
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    1,576
    new stretch bolts
    cheers
    blaze

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Warwick Qld
    Posts
    714
    Quote Originally Posted by donh54 View Post
    I had to "mechanically adjust" mine, too. Ended up removing them completely, and went with a wrap, instead. I'll let you know if the car catches fire 4.6 head gasket
    Well, the wrapping seems to be a success! You can actually hold your hand close to the manifold after a good run, couldn't get near the heat shields before. Highly recommended!
    -----
    Light travels faster than sound:
    This is why some people appear bright - until you hear them speak
    -----
    1996 Disco 300 TDi ("Slo-Mo")
    1995 P38A 4.6 HSE ("The Limo")
    1966 No 5 Trailer (ARN 173 075)
    -----

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