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Thread: Hi to you all some advice please

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Melbourne
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    142
    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    How do you guys "flush" a radiator.
    No idea, Shane! Personally, I use Natrad in Moorabbin. Yes, the silly plastic headers can only be re-used once or twice. Also, I have no idea how they ascertain the percentage blockage, whether it's a guesstimate or they actually measure the flow.
    2013 D4
    1966 Army engineering trailer
    1976 SIII diesel tray (farm ute)
    (previously SII 2.25 swb, SIII 2.25 swb & lwb, P38 Vogue, 1993 LSE HS2.8)

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Victoria
    Posts
    1,451
    At those kms I'd expect the water pump impeller to have mostly disintegrated if it is original. Don't trust the cooling fan viscous hub either. Replacing these two items along with the aforementioned good advice re the radiator rebuild/replacement should go some way to preserving that 4.6 engines' integrity for another couple of hundred thou or thereabouts.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    4

    Fould one problem so far

    Hi guys i seem to have one problem if my car is standing still the heater blows cold as soon as its driving it heats up. Its got a New radiator and water pump and engine is not getting too hot. Thanks

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Townsville, QLD
    Posts
    2,470
    Must be just the lack of coolant circulation when idling that causes it to blow cold.

    Green 2000 P38 Range Rover HSE - Gone
    Blue 1999 P38 Range Rover HSE - Gone

    Silver 2002 P38 Range Rover HSE - Sequential LPG, BCDC Charger, TPMS, Rear Locker, Wheel Carrier, Bullbar & Spotlights, General Grabber AT2's, Too Much to Mention!

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Bendigo
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    14

    Talking

    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    How do you guys "flush" a radiator. I've never managed to flush anything from radiators. I've pulled the tanks off old downflow radiators, and not been able to pass even a hacksaw blade through the tubes (that were jamned solid). If it's a modern plastic tank radiator.... it's a throw away item.

    Can you get a proper radiator made up for them rather than the aluminium/plastic tank junk ? That way it can be cleaned out in the future (though I must admit, it's amazing how cheap some of those new radiators are).

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    The only way to clean out any radiator is to disassemble it and rod the tubes. And as mentioned with tabbed header assemblies can only be done maybe once or twice. Otherwise a power flush using air pressure in the reverse direction of flow then alternating is your next best thing (preferably after a cleaning chemical has been run through it to help dislodge/soften and breakup any sludge) Using the old flow test method is guessing. Unless its really really blocked then it will be obviously blocked. Yes, a 'proper' radiator can be custom built (in cu/br or full alloy). I costed a heavy duty high efficiency one up in full copper/brass as a curiosity soon after I got my current P38 (from a fellow AULRO'ian, thanks I love it ) and it's expensive and until the current stock system proves insufficient then wont be pursued. I don't like full alloy radiators as a general rule.

    The lack of heat when idling only is curious. Possible flow issue as suggested or airlock. I'd pull the heater hoses off and "flow test) it Verify that it is unrestricted, the garden hose should suffice for that. Flow it in both directions watching for colour/contamination.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Crafers West South Australia
    Posts
    10,208
    I've noticed when doing LPG conversions that the thermostat on a P38 shuts off flow to the heater circuit when fully open for radiator cooling flow. So if you're idling and the system is not up to scratch the heater will cease to provide heat. New radiator, thermostat and viscous fan clutch would be on my shopping list before the weather gets any warmer. See Mario & Heather at Roverlord Off Road Spares.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Gosford, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    2,408
    I have an Aussie Desert Cooler radiator in mine

    Home

    Steve
    MY96 4.6 HSE P38. Niagara Grey; "The Phoenix"
    MY99 4.6 HSE P38. LPG, Blenheim Sliver; "Voldemort" burnt to a cinder
    MY79 RR Classic, Gone, MY57 Series 1 SWB, Long gone
    P38 write ups and info on my website http://p38.hts.com.au/

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Williamstown, Victoria
    Posts
    564
    Welcome aboard, congrats on the new Rangie!
    The best thing I can suggest is to keep on top of the maintenance, like any vehicle, do the regular things on time (oil & filter/air filter, etc).
    I have found keeping on top of these things does keep it running well and less chance of breakdowns.
    Also check your pollen filters, they are probably filthy if they haven't been changed for awhile Range Rover Pollen Filter Replacement
    The EAS will need attention at some stage, leaks can develop, or the valve block will need a new set of o rings to keep it going properly, but that can all be done yourself, with the help of this forum and you tube searches.
    The HEVAC will also probably need some attention at some stage, usually blend motors can fail, leaving you with hot air blowing on one side and cold on the other, which gets annoying.
    This can also be done yourself, (I just replaced one on mine yesterday!)
    You will end up being a P38 expert after a while, it is pretty satisfying when you fix things yourself.
    A copy of the rave manual is a must if you have not got one already, also a way of reading fault codes is a huge help. I have a faultmate extreme which has been excellent, there are also other units that will do the job. It's not something you use all the time, but when you do need it, you are very glad you have it!
    The great thing about P38's is pretty much any problem you may come across has already been dealt with by someone else and you can find tons of great info to help you.
    All the best!
    Cheers, Pete.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Logan
    Posts
    12,417
    I haven't seen anyone mention rust - don't Rangies rust?
    Maybe a clean and rust treatment?
    Re. radiators you can drop the bottom hose to empty and then put a hose in the top and let the water bubble through. It's not as good as a proper flush, but it could help.
    New radiators are not that dear.
    I would pull up all the carpets and check for rust.
    2009 Defender 110 2.4. ARB bulbar, Ironman winch, Safari snorkel, Steinbauer chip, AP HD clutch, Lightforce spots, larger tank, Off Road Systems drawer, Traxide 160 controller, Tekonsha brakes, Mulgo seat runners, Uniden UHF, Nuggetstuff seat corners, breathers.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Townsville, QLD
    Posts
    2,470
    P38's have held up extremely well over the years! I'm yet to see one with rust in nearly 10yrs of P38ing and AULROing.

    Cheers
    Keithy

    Green 2000 P38 Range Rover HSE - Gone
    Blue 1999 P38 Range Rover HSE - Gone

    Silver 2002 P38 Range Rover HSE - Sequential LPG, BCDC Charger, TPMS, Rear Locker, Wheel Carrier, Bullbar & Spotlights, General Grabber AT2's, Too Much to Mention!

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