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Thread: Hi to you all some advice please

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Netherlands
    Posts
    135
    unfortunatly, they definatly do rust (and/or corrode)

    I have several panels where the aluminium has started to corrode and is breaking through the paint, also, the tailgate is made out of metal and it will start to rust there. Mine rusts just below the window seal/cover strip and along the bottom where the two pieces of sheet metal that make up the in- and out-side are pressed and folded together. I would certainly take care of protecting that to prevent it from rusting. Other than that, the chassis is remarkably well protected and seems to not be very prone to rusting, even in a wet and salty environment but again, eventually they do rust

    Cheers,
    -P

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Canberra, Australia
    Posts
    10
    Quote Originally Posted by Keithy P38 View Post
    I forgot to mention earlier, Crankshaft Position Sensors (CKP) usually die around the 200,000km mark in our beloved P38's too!
    ....or sooner if your engine overheats.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Canberra, Australia
    Posts
    10
    Quote Originally Posted by prelude View Post
    unfortunatly, they definatly do rust (and/or corrode)

    I have several panels where the aluminium has started to corrode and is breaking through the paint, also, the tailgate is made out of metal and it will start to rust there. Mine rusts just below the window seal/cover strip and along the bottom where the two pieces of sheet metal that make up the in- and out-side are pressed and folded together. I would certainly take care of protecting that to prevent it from rusting. Other than that, the chassis is remarkably well protected and seems to not be very prone to rusting, even in a wet and salty environment but again, eventually they do rust

    Cheers,
    -P
    I bought my truck in Cairns so had the joy of replacing the rear tail struts and cables (cables were heavily rusted). Also, the plastic pipes in the engine bay were that brittle they snapped in your fingers, but I was told this was a problem with the plastic pipes in Oz weather. I've since changed them to rubber with no further problems.
    I've had a few settling in issues with my unit and while I entertained upgrading it, I found I couldn't do it.
    The mechanic has told me I have around $8k of work coming up in the front and rear tailshafts and visc coupling, but I'm thinking of fitting an e-locker and true trac, so any issues will be resolved at the same time.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Netherlands
    Posts
    135
    8k worth of work on two drive shafts and a viscous coupling? Mate, I have no clue about prices and rates down under but that seems prohibitively expensive! The viscous couplings are expensive but no longer available new so you'd need a refurbished one from ashcroft. I reckon for that kind of money you can get a refurbished transfer case (which includes the viscous coupling), refurbished diffs incl. lockers and diff pinning from ashcroft, double cardan drive shafts and heavy duty half shafts from lucky8 and still have money to spare on shipping all that to .au

    Cheers,
    -P

  5. #25
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Mullaloo, Western Australia
    Posts
    1,086
    Quote Originally Posted by PaulToll View Post
    I bought my truck in Cairns so had the joy of replacing the rear tail struts and cables (cables were heavily rusted). Also, the plastic pipes in the engine bay were that brittle they snapped in your fingers, but I was told this was a problem with the plastic pipes in Oz weather. I've since changed them to rubber with no further problems.
    I've had a few settling in issues with my unit and while I entertained upgrading it, I found I couldn't do it.
    The mechanic has told me I have around $8k of work coming up in the front and rear tailshafts and visc coupling, but I'm thinking of fitting an e-locker and true trac, so any issues will be resolved at the same time.
    $8k worth of work sounds like difinitely over the top!!!
    With a hiost replacing the transfer case complete with VC should only take a couple of hours. Removing and refitting front and rer shafts an hour tops. Even to take 8 hours for the complete job and chage $1k for labour thats $7k for parts. Shop around for a realistic mechanic who knows Land Rovers or even better p38's.
    If you've got the space you could buy your own hoist and tool kit for less than the estimate and do it yourself?

    I'm not a mechanic but working on these cars is not too difficult. Just take your time and read through relevant section of RAVE before starting your project.

    Just out of curiosity why does your mechanic think you need a new Viscous Coupling and prop shaafts?
    Gary

    1996 p38a HSE
    2" lift, Gen3 bags, adjustable Terra Firma +2" shocks, adjustable panhard rod, adjustable sway bar disconnects, EAS bypass, Ashcroft ATB F&R, 255/55/18 Toyo Proxes ST for road & 265/75/16 Maxxis Big Horns for off road :)

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Canberra, Australia
    Posts
    10
    I had asked him to check the condition of the under gear because at the time I was deliberating between keeping the RR or upgrading it to a 322/20 or higher.
    I resolved to stick with the P38, old school, like to have more control of my truck when negotiating hills etc.

    So, the mechanic just gave me an estimate only.
    Obviously he would need to check the gear more thoroughly.

    My thoughts were if I added dual lockers, as most of it would be down he could check the viscous at the same time.

    I had the truck out on the weekend at an advanced driver training exercise, so she took a bit of hiding, but it held strong.
    Standard road tyres as well and never got stuck.
    Awesome vehicles.

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